Vickermann & Stoya of Baden-Baden
We may count Vickermann & Stoya amongst our very dearest German friends. Remember them from Bespoke Germany? Our German operative considers their handmade shoes the best in the Bundesrepublik.
'Tell me more about them, Tweedy. I know very little and my schoolboy German is a little rusty and lacking in technical shoemaking vocabulary,' asks A. Reader.
Proud to Mr. Reader.
I've been in touch with V & S and we now have a little more gen. The photos that accompany this article may attest to the level of craftsmanship you should expect from their shoes. Look at those boots above. I think I'm developing a 'thing' for hook fasteners.
The Vickermann & Stoya Way
Established in 2004, Vickermann & Stoya wish to be seen as craftsmen, their business a welcoming workshop. They produce 25 pairs of shoes a month tailored to the wearer.
Their intensive procedure to create a tailored pair of shoes:
- An orthopaedic impression is made of the foot to accurately represent the contours, outline and pressure points.
- The heel, ankle, instep, ball and toes are measured.
- The profile of the foot is traced.
- The customer chooses a a model for the shape of the last and the material to use.
- The last is built and strips of the material are cut and built around the last.
- A leather lining is added.
- Hemp yarn is used to sew the upper layers and create extremely tight seams.
- A cork insole, leather mid-sole, outer sole and heel is added to complete the structure.
- The shoe is finished with polishing and waxing.
Shoe Care Course
V & S also offer shoe care courses. Shining shoes and drinking beer seems like a jolly nice way to pass the time. I want one of those green aprons.
Vickermann & Stoya offer an extensive range of exotic leathers, including ray (above) and the pimply ostrich (as seen on the gloves below).
Vickermann & Stoya's Shoe Tips
V & S offer some tips for keeping your shoes in tip-top condition.
- Use a shoehorn so you don't knacker the heel.
- Use shoe trees to draw moisture from the shoes after wearing. Must be unvarnished cedar or beech.
- Lay shoes on the sides to dry if the leather soles are wet. (I read that rubbing a 1/2 potato on a leather sole would stop you slipping in the wet. Anyone tried that?)
Francis Bown would approve of this: V & S also make gloves to match your shoes. Some nice tan ostrich numbers here.
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