Sheep, Shape and London Fashion - Hackett

Hackett the Good Shepherd

I'm not sure how involved Jeremy Hackett is with the now Spanish-owned company he built selling second-hand tweeds. The Hackett Sheep, Shape and London Fashion collection is described as Jeremy's capsule collection for A/W 2015. So I imagine he's hands-on with this one.

The twelve-piece collection 'pays homage to the prestigious long-standing textile mills in Britain that continue to create the finest wools available worldwide.' A worthy homage.

Hackett and our dear friends at Fox Brothers of Somerset took ownership of a flock of Wensleydale sheep a few years ago. The sheep were farmed near to Fox and their fleece has now been used to create the Tommy Nutter-inspired checked and patterned fabrics used in the collection. Raw material and manufacturing all in the same county — a good thing.

Tweedy's favourites from the collection:

Jeremy Hackett Looking at Cloth

We were only talking about the death of the pinstripe suit in Britain recently weren't we? Yet here we see (top and below) Jeremy leading from the front with a terrific three-piece number. Tell your tailor — pinstripe is back.

Mystery Swiss Scarf

Hand-Printed Scarf from Switzerland

I have had this mysterious vintage scarf in my collection for a while. I am using it here as a loose winter equivalent of the Cary Grant Riviera scarf teamed with a camel hair sweater from the former Berk of Burlington Arcade (now a name trading online only).

The scarf is of fine wool, but it's as soft as cashmere — so with the camel it makes for a warm and comfortable pairing.

The Case of the Swiss Scarf

Note the hand-printing of the scarf. Lovely. I am not in any way desperate, but I would like to see if there are other such scarves in circulation from the Swiss company that made it. I have seen similar scarves from a defunct (I think) Swiss company called Londonderry. Are they the same? Does anyone have any clues? Can we crack this case like we almost did with Peal shoes?

Climbing Mount Everest #2 - Sunspel Thermals

Thermals from Sunspel

My enthusiasm to climb Mount Everest is dimming slightly since the hat post. I have managed to secure some good thermals though. Do they call it the base layer in mountaineering circles?

What you see is a merino wool long-sleeved undershirt and long johns set from Sunspel. Woollen underwear is highly insulating and breathable, but with low air permeability say the experts. Basically it's a good choice of underwear when it's cold.

These English-made long johns are decidedly old-school. The cotton canvas 'girdle' has some neat little adjusters as there is no elastic in the waist.

I've tested them out at Tweed Towers whilst we've been having this cold snap and I've been as warm as toast; and it's a comfortable wear, like a tailor has created a bespoke body-hugging blanket suit that has all the give required not to feel restricted in any way.

How to Dress - A Guide for the Modern Gentleman with Gustav Temple

The Gallery

As I skim through our gallery, I notice Mrs T hasn't added Bunny Roger yet. We need him in there, but it would also be good to include people who are still alive. Do you have any suggestions?

A Magical Journey into Sartorial Splendour

Gustav Temple is a notably living addition to the gallery, nestled as he is between Paul Weller (also alive) and Cary Grant (deceased).

The extant author and editor of gentleman's bible The Chap presents a new four part online lecture course for The Idler, which is described as the 'ultimate guide on the proper way to wear clothes'.

How to Dress - A Guide for the Modern Gentleman with Gustav Temple covers informal wear, formal wear, clothes maintenance and the art of buying well.

'Join his magical world of cravats, the Windsor knot, Harris tweed, the best kind of cufflinks, detachable collars, white tie and sock braces.' 

Denim, hoodies and flip-flops won't be recommended. This lecture series would make the perfect unsubtle gift for the sloven in your life.

Dunhill Trouser Fun

Dunhill Trousers

I don't know if it's because of the cold, but I'm needing to look at photographs of lightweight trousers right now. You might feel the same way.

Dunhill has helped with some of the images from their spring and summer campaign. The collection — says Creative Director at Dunhill John Ray  —  is inspired by the theme of escape and an insouciant approach to combining clothes when travelling. An approach they might describe in Spain as 'ande yo caliente riase la gente.' Roughly translated as, 'as long as I'm warm, I don't care if people laugh'; or in this case, 'as long as I'm comfortable on my travels, I don't care what I'm wearing'.

I'm particularly taken with the cream cotton trousers matched with the cashmere/silk polo here:

And the beige woollen estate check cloth used for the trousers of this suit:

Also nice to see that the tasselled loafer continues to resonate.

It all looks completely and respectably wearable to me. Judging by what they're wearing, and sometimes that's the only thing we can use in our assessments (despite what others might say), these chaps would be welcome at Tweed Towers any time.

They may tuck a scarf into their shirt, and don't we all at some stage, but they are not going to put their feet on your sofa or spill the tea you serve.

Dunhill Plays Britten

I might have to rescind the open invite to Tweed Towers. We have video evidence of furniture inappropriateness in the video below. And of reading newspapers upside-down. It's simply not on.

Then again, the video is meant to celebrate Dunhill man's 'time at home in sartorial requiescence'. They can do as they please in their own home, I suppose. I need to think about this one.

Benjamin Britten's Playful Pizzicato [Amazon] provides the frolicsome soundtrack.

Love Bade Me Welcome

As the suburban flagellants queue up for the vicarious thrills of those fifty shades of grey, herewith an antidote...

Seduction Music

If you were to lure me into your apartment and were attempting to seduce me Renzo Cesana-style, you could do worse than have Love Bade Me Welcome — Songs and Poetry from the Renaissance [Amazon] playing in the background. (Or Easy Lovers from Piccioni's soundtrack to Camille 2000.)

It would do little to melt my icy reserve, but points for trying.

Love Bade Me Welcome is an album of English Renaissance music and poetry recorded by the Canadian ensemble Theatre of Early Music. The ensemble was founded by conductor and counter-tenor Daniel Taylor, who also sings on the album.

It's something of a curiosity, but a charming one at that. Look at some of the names involved: James Bowman, Ralph Fiennes, William Shakespeare, Walter Raleigh, John Dowland and George Herbert.

James Bowman provides additional counter-tenorism, Ralph Fiennes does the poetry recitation bit; Shakespeare, Raleigh and others provide quite exceptional words.

Let's pick a track for St Valentine's Day. How about Ralph reciting George Herbert's Love? described by Andrew Motion as one of the greatest lyric poems ever written.

Letter from Melbourne - Five Eyes on Blue Ties

In his latest dispatch, Bertie of Melbourne has been watching the unfolding of a controversy involving the Australian Prime Minister and his tie collection.

Normally we would take the view that politicians should be ignored lest they think we are actually interested in what they have to say, which would only encourage them to show off by proposing new laws and engaging in other types of attention-seeking behaviour. But they are figureheads we have to admit, so how they choose to dress says something about how they wish to represent their country. Remember the sniggering over Obama's beige-coloured suit? America has never really recovered, and perhaps never will.

Long we have argued that our Prime Minister should be clad in full Savile Row to best represent the interests of the British people: evidence.

Letter from Melbourne

My dear Tweed

Have you ever noticed how statesmen and politicians dress these days? It seems they are desperately keen to ‘fly under the radar’ - a rather delightful reference evoking the glamour of the fighter pilot and his glorious silk cravats. Regrettably, when it comes to our politicians and their neckwear choices it seems to be all about showing their political colours: solid blues or reds & never a cravat.

In Australia, the ties of our conservative Prime Minister Tony Abbott, have come in for significant scrutiny and the PM has given cartoonists extensive material by wearing only blue ties. I thought I’d throw in my five cents (or 2 pence in the old money) and share with you (and any political advisers who read your blog) some blue ties with a twist.

Ties to Canberra

When shopping for blue ties, where better to start than Canberra - home to our politicians and secret services. I recently discovered Henry Carter selling ties out of our capital city and the first thing that caught my eye was the attention to detail and the multijurisdictional production process.

The silk ties are made in two stages in two different countries.

First: the British Job

Henry Carter ties use fabrics printed in Macclesfield, Cheshire, famous for over three hundred years for producing silk cloth. The fabric is printed by Adamley in their mill that has been on that site for the past fifty years using water sourced from its own reservoir.

Second: the Italian Job

The ties are then handmade (& rolled) in Naples in a small family-owned factory that has been crafting ties for over 40 years.

The result is a selection of ties covering both classic and contemporary.

My first suggestion for a conservative neck is a Dark Blue floral silk tie (top).

My second suggestion is a Mid Blue Floral silk tie, something lighter but would work equally well around a conservative neck:

And my final suggestion, for the bold and adventurous is a wool challis tie in Blue and Burgundy:

All of the ties are untipped, making them lightweight and free to flap according to the prevailing breeze – perfect for the modern politician.

Bertie Davies
@melbourneletter

PS Wouldn't it be lovely to see our politicians change their spots to spots or show their paisley teardrops? I too would appreciate any Five Eyes readers intel on the neckwear of statesmen. It’s a topic that doesn’t get enough attention. Our democracy requires us to hold them to account – if we’re not careful, we might end up with tieless politicians for whom every day is Casual Friday (dread words!)

Two Minutes of Corneliani in Mantua

Corneliani in Mantua

Why not spend a nice couple of minutes with this young man in Mantua? Sensible haircut, clean fingernails, you could take him anywhere.

In the two-minute video below by Mario Gomez he's showing off the spring and summer collection of Corneliani in their home town of Mantua, aiming to capture their concept of 'Life as a Masterpiece'.

Nice to see some timeless pinstripe in the collection. It's almost died out in Britain for some reason. More pinstripe on British streets, please, tailoring profession.

English Sparkling Wine for St Valentine's Day - Ridgeview Grosvenor

World-Class Wine from the South Downs of England

We could start a whole sub-section on top-quality English champagne sparkling wine makers. And this might well be the start. I enjoy a nice glass of 'shampoo'. (If any grower-producers would like the, ahem, Tweed Towers Wine Club to sample their offerings...)

The misconception that any French champagne is by default better than any English sparkling wine has been truly shattered in recent years, and there is now high demand and regard for the best of the English producers.

Take for instance the Ridgeview Grosvenor, our recommendation for your amorous endeavours on the 14th. This multi-award winner is a 2011 vintage blanc de blancs sparkler with an 'excellent mousse' and a 'fruitful nose which hints of honey and toast'.

Ridgeview Wine Estate was founded in 1996 by Mike and Chris Roberts, and is based in Sussex. A family business — our favourite type — a second-generation of the Roberts family is now involved so that we may look forward to more fine vintages.

To quote Berry Bros & Rudd (1698) on this wine, 'It is now a self-evident truth that the best English wines are better than the majority of Champagnes, and this one is probably the best English sparkling wine of all.'  Take that Reims.

Quote this fact to your sweetheart (without attribution) as you pour them a glass and you're bound to get their heart racing with your assured discernment.

St Valentine's Day - Say it with Floris

What if I Seek for Love of Thee?

If you are unsure what to send to the secret male love of your life on Valentine's Day, say it with Floris. A new drill is just sending out the wrong signals, as Cupid will tell you.

Floris has an impeccable history of fine English perfume making. What's more, your secret love will also appreciate the Ian Fleming connection of their No 89 scent — he used it and mentioned Floris in three of his Bond novels —  which they describe as a 'quintessentially English gentleman's fragrance'. They say Prince Charles enjoys it too, but that's classified information.

He is a gentleman, right? I don't want you wasting your advances on some ill-mannered hobbledehoy who won't treat you as you deserve to be treated. I worry about your choices sometimes. If he doesn't read The Tweed Pig, then we need to start asking questions.

Anyway, let us assume he deserves the effort you are putting in and he's the right sort. He will be delighted with No 89's classic blend of perky cologne elements and masculine woods and spices. The scent will last all day, and hopefully encourage an affection that lasts a bit longer.

Top notes: bergamot, lavender, neroli, nutmeg, orange, petitgrain
Heart notes: geranium, rose, ylang ylang
Base notes: cedarwood, musk, oakmoss, sandalwood, vetiver

White City, Tel Aviv

Tel Aviv is Nice

Did I tell you I spent some time in Israel recently? I was very much looking forward to visiting Tel Aviv, particularly the White City at its centre. The White City is a Unesco World Heritage Site and contains 4000-odd buildings built in the Bauhaus modernist (or international) style.

The foundation of Tel Aviv is quite fascinating. I will leave you to read up on the history if you are curious. I will tell you that I found the place most agreeably relaxed and civil. Does the original urban planning of White City help?

Because of the climate life is lived outside in Tel Aviv. You will feel completely at ease walking anywhere at any time of the day or night, which is good as you have a lot of ground to cover if you wish to ogle at some of the modernist wonders around the White City. 

You know something? I might just place Tel Aviv in the top three of my favourite cities along with Madrid and Vienna. Am I rushing things? Let's put it there for now. I can always change my mind. Go and take a look and tell me what you think.

White City Walks

So this is my primary recommendation for your visit: after a hearty breakfast of shakshuka (spicy poached eggs) take a good long walk or two around the White City. And on your walks you will encounter a well-educated and hospitable population who do not appear to go to bed ever.

Grab a city map and head to Dizengoff Street and there will be something of interest whichever direction you take from there. The Bauhaus Center, which is located in Dizengoff, can help you immeasurably; and they can also provide guided tours if that's your bag.

As you walk around, I defy you not to start mentally moving in to some of the places you see, picturing a van der Rohe chair here and a Le Corbusier table there.

I have scattered a few of my snaps around this article. I was enjoying the city so much that these photographs were often take hurriedly at twilight — but I did not completely forget my obligations to you, chums.

Nice Streets

Not wishing to exhaust you, but I noted other streets worthy of a diversion on your walks.

Sheinkin Street has many independent shops and coffee houses, many open on shabbat (I think).

Shalom Shabazi is located in one of the oldest parts of Tel Aviv and has nice restaurants and art galleries; it is rather bourgeois and altogether quiet and pleasant. I needed to go through the old market to get to Shalom Shabazi. You might find a quicker way.

Joppa or Jaffa

The ancient sea port of Joppa — or Jaffa, as it's now called — is on the doorstep of Tel Aviv. So try and squeeze in a visit. You can walk along the seafront from the centre of Tel Aviv to Jaffa — they're practically joined — in half an hour or so. The history of the town of Jaffa is ludicrously extensive. You should spend some time reading about Jaffa too.

The 'old city' around the harbour in Jaffa is being gentrified and is nice for the evening. Try the Abouelafia (1879) bakery for hot sachlav (milk drink) and cake. Or you might want to try Dr Shakshuka who do an incredible shakshuka, as their name suggests. I became rather addicted to shakshuka whilst I was there, I must say — incredible stuff.

Cooper Hackett Single Speed Bike

The Revolution will be Two-Wheeled

The chrome-finished single-speed racer above is the result of a collaboration between British cycle engineers Cooper Bikes and Hackett. Cooper Bikes was founded in 2009 by Mike Cooper. Mike is the son of John Cooper of the famous Cooper Car Company who built the racing cars driven by the likes of Sir Stirling Moss and conceived the Mini Cooper.

Mike says of their design ethos: "The Cooper name is synonymous with great design, quality, affordability and above all, an element of fun." 

...And Possibly Single-Speed

The bicycle is single-speed, beloved of mail messengers in dense urban hubs who appreciate the advantage of its lightness and efficiency; a simpler gear system is, they say, more reliable when whizzing through snarled up traffic and irritating envious car drivers.

The Hackett Cooper Single Speed may be configured for 'single speed freewheel' or 'fixed wheel' riding. I won't bore you with those distinctions — what do you mean I don't know? — rather I will divert your gaze to the lovely Hackett Cooper emblem below. Such seemingly small details will tell you all you need to know about the thought and workmanship that goes into something.

Note too the mustard-coloured Brooks saddle and leather handlebar tape; also the traditional 'gum wall' tyres. We want this bike.

In the Mood...for the Library

We are in the mood for learning at The Tweed Pig. They say life's the thing, but we prefer reading. And where better to read than a library?

We will ensconce ourselves in a quiet alcove, blow the dust from a leather tome, and invoke that heady sensation of drowsy and scholarly for a couple of hours. Quiet please.

(Painting is 'Interior with Young Man Reading' by Danish painter Vilhelm Hammershøi)

Private White VC Sports Harris Tweed Jacket

The Merchant Fox - Wool Silk Pocket Square

Johnstons of Elgin - Cashmere Aran Cable Shawl Collar Cardigan

DAKS - Regent Classic Fit Shirt

Drake's London - Silk Knitted Tie

Cordings of Piccadilly - Corduroy Trousers

Albert Thurston - Braces

E. Tautz - Socks

Edward Green - Shoes

Crombie - Cashmere Lined Camel Deerskin Gloves

Gizzi Leather - Leather Satchel

Linley - Time Hourglass

London Undercover - Oxford City Umbrella

Letter from Melbourne - In Praise of Purple

We have received a new letter from our dear friend Bertie of Melbourne, Australia. It needs no introduction, but I'm just popping my head around the door to mention that we're still looking for men on the ground in other 5 Eyes locations. What should we know about Auckland?

Bertie calls the purple-influenced outfit he describes below Bishop at a Sherry Party.

Carry on Bertie.

Letter from Melbourne

My dear Tweed

I very much enjoyed your post of 23 December with Sir John Betjeman’s poem Christmas. I particularly enjoyed Betjeman's image of the ‘hurrying clerks’ leaving the City to their pigeon-haunted towers. I don’t know if you got away over Christmas but I most certainly hope that Tweed Towers is not haunted by pigeons. (If so, I may have a solution to that problem but more on that later.)

I managed to tootle off for a few weeks, but I'm back now to putting my feet under my desk and under the aforesaid is my recent discovery of a pair of priceless purple socks (above).

The rib socks are made by Pantherella and I picked them up at Henry Bucks in Collins Street, Melbourne. I rather think they pass the Saki test and ‘compel one’s attention without losing one’s respect’.

But apparently, not everyone would agree with my appraisal of purple.

PG Wodehouse's short story Jeeves & the Chump Cyril [Amazon] revolves around a pair of purple socks that my namesake Bertram W wears against the wishes of Jeeves. The story ends badly for the socks with Jeeves lugging them out of a drawer 'as if he were a vegetarian fishing a caterpillar out of his salad' before giving them away to an hotel porter.

What Could Jeeves Have Against Wearing Purple?

Apparently quite a bit.

The wearing of purple has been regulated since before the time of the First Elizabeth. Good Queen Bess's Sumptuary Statutes dictated who got to eat what, drink what and wear what. And when it came to purple Kings (Emperors) and Bishops used to hold all the cards.

There may be some romantic-reactionaries out there wishing for the re-regulation of purple, but I suspect the readership of the Tweed Pig comprises the best parts of the Gentleman and Yeoman classes and would remain forever grateful that these laws no longer hold sway in the land. Thus I encourage you, dear Tweed, and your readership to rejoice in the freedom to wear all things purple, heliotrope and plum.

Personally, I rather fancy this John Smedley polo neck.

And I'm now on the hunt for for a few yards of Dugdale Brothers Saxony Tweed with a purple check to go with it:

But when it comes to purple socks, personally, I think they best hidden from compelling one's immediate attention, and this is achieved by wearing trousers that break correctly only showing the inner King-Emperor's besocked ankles when sitting down to a lunch of swan, goose and pigeon.

Bertie Davies, Melbourne
@melbourneletter