Sounds of Summer

Once off this overcrowded rock — Did you know that England has over four times the population density of Spain? Ever likely we queue for everything. We don't have a choice. — and somewhere along the sunny end of the continent, within stone-skimming distance of the Mediterranean, you'll hopefully find the space, quietude and climate to help uncoil that tense neck of yours. It's summer holiday-time, gents.

As a consequence, you'll be looking for jolly foot-tappers to listen to as you pack ice into a highball glass for that breakfast gin and tonic — You don't do that at home. — mentally planning your permanent exile.

Herewith, jolly foot-tappers; all tested in appropriately languid summer situations.

You can add them to the ones from last year.

Kisses - Funny Heartbeat

Kisses are an LA band. Funny Heartbeat was produced by our very own Pete Wiggs of Saint Etienne fame. Good show, Pete. Kisses provide our top photo due to the splendid parrot.



Alexander Dexter-Jones - Phantastic Phone Call

Alexander is not the son of Clash legend Mick Jones, as my initial assumption led me to believe, based on vocal delivery alone. He's actually the son of Mick Jones of the band Foreigner —  a native of Somerton, Somerset, ancient capital of Wessex. 'Foreigner Mick' will be proud, I'm sure. Perhaps 'Clash Mick' will be too. 



Madredeus - Haja O Que Houver

Something of an indicator as to where old Tweedy is heading this summer, Portugal's Madredeus have quite a following in Latin-Europe and Latin-America; not so much in the Anglosphere. Let's change that.

Haja O Que Houver is one of their more summery numbers.

Antologia [Amazon] is an excellent introduction to this Fado-inspired band.

Day at the Seaside

Last year's Day at the Seaside was extraordinarily popular, so this summer we've hired a coach again. We're travelling in a beautiful Bedford Vega.

When we get there, we can sit on the pier and eat cockles, and flick through my copies of Tweed Magazin.

I've saved the back seat of the coach for us. If it's anything like last year, I thought it wise.

Edward Gucewicz - Buffalo Horn Sunglasses (Made in the UK)

Oliver Spencer - Cotton Jacquard Shorts

Alfie Douglas - Leather & Copper Belt (Made in the UK)

Sunspel - Riviera Polo

Drake's - Animal Print Scarf

Quoddy - Boat Moc

Brady Bags - Beach Bag (Made in the UK)

Ibberson - Off Shore Knife with 'cockle spike' (Made in the UK)

Parsons - Pickled Cockles (Fished in the UK)

Very English Sounds of Summer - Virginia Astley

From Gardens Where We Feel Secure

I'm rather looking forward to boiled eggs and toast soldiers for breakfast this morning. It's a fine, bright day, so I might just throw on my house coat and breakfast outside in the grounds of Tweed Towers.

The perfect musical accompaniment for eating boiled eggs outdoors at this time of year would have to be From Gardens Where We Feel Secure by English songwriter and musician Virginia Astley.

The album, From Gardens Where We Feel Secure [Amazon] was recorded in 1983. It's a mostly instrumental evocation of a hot summer's day from morning to dusk, capturing, almost hesitantly, and certainly dreamily, the gentle sounds of an idyllic English summer.

The last re-release of the album was in 2005 on the Rough Trade label. If it's deleted again, you may have to take the Japanese import option; they cherish this album, as should we.

Shuron USA Sunglasses

When you think about classic brands of sunglasses, you will likely first think of Ray-Ban and Persol. What about Shuron? Shuron has been making eyewear since 1865.  

Shuron's frames are still made in the U.S.A. from their base in Greenville, South Carolina. (I visited Charleston in South Carolina one time. A charming place with some excellent pubs. I didn't see anyone dancing the Charleston, unfortunately. I must go back some time.)

Ronsir

Shuron began making its famous 'browline' sunglasses in 1947. The first browline frame— where the top of the frame is thicker and of plastic and a metal frame holds the lens below — was the Ronsir; and, as it's still available, it's safe to say that it's a classic.

The browline model you see here is the Ronsir Escapades in tortoise.

If Alain Delon didn't wear a pair in Plein Soleil — and I'm picturing him in a pair — he could easily have done so, and they would have suited him so well.

Macarthur

Shuron created their MacArthur sunglasses (top) for the U.S. armed forces during the Second World War. The 58 model has a 12K gold frame and mother of pearl browbar. A fabulous pair of sunglasses. I want.

Tweed - The Magazine

Britischer Tradition

When it comes to holiday reading, you probably don't need to look further than the big three: Fleming, Christie and Wodehouse. You can add a dash of Highsmith to the mix. But why not read some Tweed this summer too? What do I mean? Do I have tweed on the brain? Yes and no; I'm actually talking about Tweed Magazin, my favourite German-language magazine dedicated to all that is civilised and chap-like.

Ein Gutes Buch

Tweed is loaded with articles of interest to any Anglophile gentleman. You'll find pieces on style, travel, tweedy living, tweedy people, classic motor cars, watches, John Nettles, cigars.

I spotted an article on our good friends at the Chelsea Farmer's Club. You'll also find intelligence on German cities, the gen on shops and whatnot.

You might also come across an interesting character named 'Troddle', seen here enjoying a drop of 'Neslon's blood'. He seems a decent sort, though I'm not sure I would have worn black shoes with those trousers.

The Bernhard Roetzel

Bernhard Roetzel, a Berlin-based writer, contributes to the magazine. Roetzel is famous for writing on British style. His book Gentleman. A Timeless Guide to Fashion [Amazon] is an excellent guide to classic men's style. British Tradition and Interior Design [Amazon] is also worthy of space on your bookshelf.

If you like The Tweed Pig, you're sure to enjoy Tweed Magazin. It makes for a fine holiday read.

Tweed on the beach, who would have thought it?

British Fox Khakee Trousers

They keep doing it. The Merchant Fox must be reading our collective mind (which we're developing, I can assure you). They've made available the ultimate khakee trousers we're all seeking; and not only that, they've released a cloth with the right feel and colour we'd like to match as a sporting blazer.

I've always spelled it 'khaki'. Following The Merchant Fox's lead, I herewith desist. But there are numerous spellings:

Khakee Trousers

The colour of the trousers here is the traditional British khakee (or 'military drab') colour, which is darker than the colour generally associated with khakee trousers. The Merchant Fox do a lighter version too.

Kahkee serge was adopted by the British army in the 19th century; the drab chosen as the 'best colour for invisibility' when replacing the 'glorious British Scarlet' in conflict.

The cotton cloth is yarn-dyed and made by a British military manufacturer in Lancashire. Looking up close, and weighing in at nearly 8 ounces, the cloth seems as robust as you could possibly want in civvy street.

Blazer

The blazer to go with your new khakee trousers will be constructed of Fox Brothers' Lightweight Bright Navy Flannel, an 8/9 ounces cloth; it's lighter than the Classic Navy Fox Flannel, which weighs in at 13/14 ounces.

The example shown in the photograph at the top is constructed by Attolini, the Neopolitan tailor involved with one of our favourite films, The Great Beauty.

Cad & the Dandy - A Passion for Tailoring

A Passion for Tailoring

In this interview, James Sleater of Cad and the Dandy explains how it is a passion for English tailoring that ultimately drives the business.



Sit the Course

If you haven't done so, you must sit the Suit Buying Course that Cad & the Dandy put together for us.

As you can see from the video clip, these chaps mean business.

Lesson #1
Lesson #2
Lesson #3

Get the Suit

Now 'suitably' knowledgeable, you can walk right in to 13, Savile Row (where you'll find Cad & the Dandy on the first floor) and have yourself measured for a thornproof two-piece.

John Baker (top), Savile Row 'ace face' at Cad and the Dandy, might be there to greet you.

Independence Day in a Hamilton Shirt

Oda of Canterbury

Might I extend a firm, manly handshake across the Atlantic today as our readers in the colonies celebrate independence from their benevolent mother country. Over here in the UK we can celebrate the feast day of Oda of Canterbury (958). Everyone's a winner.

On this day, might we suggest wearing a shirt with an impeccable American pedigree?

Hamilton Shirts of Houston

Hamilton Shirts have been in the shirt biz since 1883. The company is still family-run and based in Houston, Texas, to provide us with the provenance and heritage we seek. Hamilton make bespoke and ready-to-wear shirts.

You would certainly want a blue Oxford shirt (above). Hand cut and sewn in the USA, the shirt is made from Italian cotton and has mother of pearl buttons. Built to last many 4ths of July.

Billed as 'America's finest dress shirt', I'm liking the Pink Bengal Stripe with cutaway collar (below). I'm sure if I squeezed hard enough I could explain why pink is an appropriate colour for Independence Day, but my teapot and plate of biscuits are beckoning.

I raise a hot cup of lapsang souchong and point it in a westerly direction. From all at The Tweed Pig, wishing you a pleasant Independence Day.

Corn Cob Pipe Like MacArthur

The 'Mincing Rascal' Celebrates

We're celebrating the 4th of July (and pandering outrageously to our American readers). And what better way than with a corn cob pipe like the one used by General MacArthur? Wearing Ray-Ban sunglasses, and clenching a corn cob pipe steadfastly in his resolute jaw, surely MacArthur — in the photograph above — embodies (in some vague way) all that we hold dear about the USA. 

The Missouri Meerschaum Company produced MacArthur's pipes, and still make them in the US today. 

The straight stem version (below) is unfiltered and has a natural bowl. Fill one with some Virginia brightleaf and start embodying. 

I Am Dandy - Celebrating the Exquisite Gentleman

A most enjoyable little film from 'CBS Sunday Morning' (below) celebrating the dandy from a mostly Anglo-American perspective, and promoting a top-hole book on modern-day dandies called I am Dandy: The Return of the Elegant Gentleman [Amazon] by Rose Callahan and Nathaniel Adams.



Our dear Beau Brummell is rightly mentioned as the father of all dandyism. Britain's own Willy Wonka gets a deserved mention too.

Harlem Dandy

New York jazz singer Dandy Wellington (above) stands out in the film with his 'Harlem dandy' aesthetic. Imagine if we all were to take such time over our appearance? Bliss would it be in that dawn to be alive. I suspect Dandy inspires us all to try sock suspenders (once and for all). Thurston do a good range.

Foad's Moustache Wax

We now interrupt The Tweed Pig to bring you an advertisement for Foad's moustache wax.



Now that's an advertisement. Actually, we 're not really interrupting anything. What's The Tweed Pig if it isn't a a series of strung-together interruptions? We're probably preventing you from doing something more meaningful right now.

For Your Top Lip Display

Foad's moustache wax is handmade by London-based Pat Foad. He sells two varieties of wax: the firmer, more sculptural Foad Wax, which is made from British beeswax; and the softer Toad Satin Wax (above). The Toad Satin Wax is a shinier affair, made with Jojoba wax and captivating unguents. Foad reckons the softer wax can be used on beard or noggin hair just as well.

Filthy Swing from the Top Shelf Band

You're wondering about the excellent band used in the advertisement? They're the Top Shelf Band, 'errant princelings from the Vaudeville Otherworld'.

They play 'filthy swing', which is the sort of music that demands the application of moustache wax when you listen to it — even if you don't have a moustache.

You should book them for your next do.

And if you're looking for a Fez, and I think you are, try our friends at Tails.

Hermès 1837 - Family Ties

Hermès Accessories

I invested in this Hermès heavy silk printed tie to go with the Cordings pink trousers I keep going on about (here and here). Hermès, established in 1837 by the German-born Thierry Hermès, is still an independent French company (although LVMH, who own a small stake, are reputedly hovering to take it over). Up to 2006 a Hermès family member headed the firm.

Hermès licenses no products, retaining control from design to manufacture.The company supports traditional manufacturing and eschews mass-production techniques that compromise on their commitment to quality. They do not discount and they do not pass their products to resellers. Caveat emptor, gentlemen.

We are interested in their John Lobb footwear business, which they incorporated in 1976.

We are also interested in their ties, which are hand-rolled or folded and constructed meticulously from the finest silk yarns that they also use for their famous scarves.

Exactly Cricket - Dressed for the Wicket

Fortnum's Cricketer Gingerbread Biscuit (above).

Traditional Cricket Kit

Slowly we are closing in on the ultimate traditional cricketing kit, which handily doubles as perfect weekend wear for the less sporting.

Alan Paine gave us the traditional England cricket sweater.

Merchant Fox gave us their incredible cricket flannels.

A ex-pat reader was grateful for these recommendations, but he wondered how we could fill the shirt-shaped gap? We're looking for a shirt similar to the one worn by Mike Brearley, ex-England cricketer, in the photo above.

Note: We're using Mike Brearley as a template for the consummate cricketing gentleman. I maintain that he took to the field sporting a white cravat on occasion, but I can't find a photo to prove this.

Shirt-wise, we're thinking this one below from Darcy Clothing is pretty close, but do let us know if you've spotted others. The shirt is constructed of soft and lightweight cotton drill.

Anything else to add to our kit? Perhaps a splash of MCC 'egg and bacon' striping?

Luigi Bianchi Mantova (LUBIAM) - 1911

Luigi Bianchi Mantova (LUBIAM) 1911

Lubiam is an Italian menswear manufacturer, based in the small and charming Italian city of Mantua (Mantua has a UNESCO World heritage old town, like most other Italian cities.), which makes ready-to-wear and made-to-measure men's clothes using our favourite Italian fabrics from the likes of Zegna, Loro Piana, Vitale Barberis Canonico, Colombo and Cerruti.

Lubiam was founded in 1911 by Luigi Bianchi and the company is still family-run and based in Mantua. I think we all have a preference for family-run businesses that stay true to their place of origin, supplying that much-needed provenance; and Italy excels in retaining them, and keeping the faceless global conglomerates out of the picture and spoiling everything for us all.

Jolly Nice Stuff

Not sure it's available where you are, but Lubiam has jolly nice stuff for this season.

The Prince of Wales sports jacket above is made from cotton and linen. I very much like that tie. I have a scarf in the identical colour and pattern — a total classic.

The check double-breasted below is in wool and silk.

Top Hats for Royal Ascot

Oliver Brown for Top Hats

If you're at Royal Ascot this week, do call in at Oliver Brown of Chelsea, London, who will be there for the duration. Pick their brains about the history of morning dress (so I don't have to repeat it all here).

Oliver Brown sell the best antique and contemporary top hats. If you're wondering about colour, shape, size or age of top hat, no problem, Oliver Brown really know their onions, and can satisfyingly answer any question on the subject.

Look at the beautiful antique silk plush hat above; made with a type of production that is no longer in existence. And if you go for one of those, you'll need a top hat 'bucket' to keep it safely way from those cursed moths. We don't want the pool of supply to diminish further. Brown sell those too.

Good luck with your wagers, gents.

Beaufort & Blake - Protect Your Territory

The Sacrifice

It is to a wood-panelled room in the turret of Tweed Towers that I retreat to write The Tweed Pig. A Spartan place: with merely an armchair, a drinks tray, a kettle and tea things, a record player, an excellent selection of books and magazines, a humidor, and tins of biscuits and sweets. Frankly, I wouldn't want to spend the enormous amount of time in there that I do, but remain I must until something adequate enough to publish appears. That's the sacrifice I make.

But such sacrifices bring rewards, and not just the trickle of donations to help keep us ad-sense free (and also send me to Savile Row. I think we have enough for a button so far.) We get to know lots of kind and charming people, such as our chums at Beaufort & Blake who made the lovely floral boxers we featured.

The Patriot

I've been speaking with dear Edward Bonnar, of B & B, and he said I should take a look at their Patriot boxer shorts (above and below). Who could resist the idea of the Union Flag 'protecting their territory'? Not I, as you may witness here.

The underwear comes with a natty little embroidered bag, as do all of Beaufort & Blake's boxer shorts, and celebrates "the significance of our Union Jack as a true British icon".

About Beaufort & Blake

Beaufort & Blake was established in 2012 by three like-minded souls who wanted to reinvigorate the British Army mess room tradition of adding a little hidden colour to shirts under their formal black/white tie dress. They began by creating a patriotic-themed dress shirt for a friend attending a ‘Best of British’ May Ball. It was such a hit, they set about shaping a business around it.

The shirts they produce have patterned backs and sleeves, which remain hidden under a dinner jacket until the night progresses, the drink flows and the jackets are removed.

That's the marcella-fronted Ivory dress shirt with elephant motif below. They have some Liberty print shirts in the pipeline, which I'm looking forward to seeing.

Beaufort & Blake at the Game Fair

Beaufort & Blake will be appearing live at the CLA Game Fair next month, which is the UK's largest "annual celebration of field sports and rural life". If you see them, offer your hand, shake firmly, and let them know you read The Tweed Pig. It's a gateway to a better life.