THE TWEED PIG

Small and Spicy - De Olifant Fantje Cigars

2012-03-10T06:28:00.001Z

Dutch Puffs

Knowing I like to carry small 'espresso-sized' cigars around with me for that (rare) sunshine + outdoor cafe/pub moment, a friend passed on this dainty little box of ten De Olifant Fantje cigarillos.

De Olifant is a Dutch company that was established in 1826 and still makes its cigars at its original factory in Kampen, Holland using original equipment. My friend tells me that De Olifant has a fine reputation for making punchy little cigars. Not sure what fantje means in Dutch. It's Slovenian for boys.

Kampen looks very nice from what I've seen of it and it's only an hour from Amsterdam, gents, for when you're next in that city. Maybe we'll take a charabanc over from Tweed Towers sometime.

De Olifant Fantje is a flavour-packed little smoke, spicy and rich with a splendid aroma. One will last about five minutes. Nice enjoyed with a glass of La Trappe Dubbel outside a Dutch boozer in the sunshine, whilst tapping your brogues to the jazz playing inside.

Because of their size, the cigarillos can dry out quickly, so get them in your humidor quick sharp.

The Life and Times of Guernsey Sweaters - Guernsey Woollens

2012-03-06T12:57:00.000Z

Guernsey Sweaters

A proper Guernsey sweater is the sort of no-nonsense classic sweater that every man should have in his winter wardrobe. It feels like woollen chain-mail - in a good way - it's so thick and robust. Fantastic. Wear one of these and then go and feel some of the excuses for sweaters that they sell on the high street. Pah! Built to last to say the least, these things can last for decades. This one of mine is in First World War green with the traditional 'boat' neckline.

The Sweater of Choice for Fishermen, Servicemen and Criminals

The Guernsey sweater originates on Guernsey in the Channel Islands as sweater of choice for fishermen because it was hard wearing, warm and could resist water due to the tightness of its weave. It has a claim to be an item of British national dress, apparently. (Could a similar claim be made for a Barbour wax jacket?)

Such a practical garment would find use in Her Majesty's Armed Forces, and was adopted by the Royal Navy and British Army in appropriate colours. I believe RLNI boat crews are still issued with Guernseys.

Fishermen and servicemen, yes, but also criminals? Law-breakers need to keep warm too. Take James Williams (above). He wouldn't be seen committing acts of larceny in 1902 North Shields, England without his short-sleeved Guernsey. H'm, short-sleeved Guersney - there's a thought. I spotted that flicking through the pictures of Edwardian criminals put up by Tyne and Wear Archives and Museums. At a time when most men wore suits, shirts and ties, I'm interested in the casual end of dress at that time. Remember the Criminally Nice Sweater?

History Spot: In the 19th century Nelson recommended Guernseys for the navy, and it was issued to a British garrison in Nova Scotia as part of their winter equipment.

I'm Convinced, But Where Can I Get Hold of a Guernsey? Answer: Guernsey Woollens

You'll be pleased to find that you can still buy an original Guernsey sweater made in Guernsey.
Guernsey Woollens have a workshop in the Parish of Vale on the island of Guernsey.

The company is run and owned by Phil Walker and Arthur Eldridge who met in the 70's when they worked for the same knitwear company in the UK. Watching a British textile industry battered by the low production costs of the Far East, their mission is to preserve the true Guernsey. The sweaters are knitted on machines, then hand-finished and steamed.

It's hard to break the seemingly insatiable consumer appetite for disposable, cheaply-made fashion, but the success of Guernsey Woollens means the tide can be turned. The company makes 200 Guernseys a week using a blend of traditional and modern manufacturing methods. Its biggest markets are the UK mainland, Europe, Canada, Japan and the United States.

Army Commissions

Such is the practicality of the Guernsey sweater that a consignment saw front-line service with the Desert Rats in Iraq. In 2006, the Brigadier of the 7th Armoured brigade commissioned Guernsey Woollens to make several hundred sweaters complete with Desert Rat insignia on the left arm for their campaign.

They have also supplied the forces in Afghanistan and regiments including the Mercian, the Royal Tank and the Intelligence Corps, who have recently reverted to their First World War green like the sweater above but with a higher neck.

Made-to-measure Service

Guernsey Woollens offers a made-to-measure service for individual size requirements.

Tinker, Tailor Passed Us By

A recent favourite film at Tweed Towers was the adaptation of Tinker, Tailor, Soldier, Spy. (Old posts: Smiley's Aquascutum Trench Coat and Tinker Tailors - Timothy Everest and Huntsman). Gents, we missed a vital piece of intelligence. A Guernsey Woollens sweater was also used in the film. In case you haven't seen the film, we won't reveal the wearer. All hush-hush.

Black Dyke and Apple Records - John Foster 1819

2012-03-05T07:13:00.000Z

John Foster (1819)

John Foster has been weaving suiting fabrics in and around Bradford, England for almost 200 years. The eponymous John Foster was a classic Victorian philanthropist who built a whole community around the original Black Dyke Mill in Queensbury - providing houses and facilities for his workers. At its peak in the late 1900s the Black Dyke Mills employed around 8,000 people.

Foster was an innovator in cloth weaving processes. At the Great Exhibition in 1851, the company won prizes for its alpaca and mohair fabrics.

At Stanley Mills, their current Bradford facility, British-owned John Foster continue to innovate and weave sought-after fabrics from wool, mohair, cashmere, silk, linen and cotton - 70% of which is exported. Every little helps our trade deficit. Your tailor may be interested to know that the fabrics can now be ordered online.

Below you can see:

9.5oz black and white Puppy Tooth in super 120s wool and cashmere.
10oz Birdseye in super 120s wool and cashmere.

Black Dyke Band and Apple Records

You've probably guessed that there is a John Foster connection with the Black Dyke Band. The famous brass band was formed at the mill in 1855, and John Foster was himself a member. He provided the band's uniform too. John Foster cloth, of course.

Brass bands like the Black Dyke Band provide a musical soundscape to northern English industrial heritage that is still evoked to this day, even though much of the associated industry may have disappeared.

One of the high points of the band has to be the recording of the Lennon and McCartney composition Thingummybob on the Beatles' own Apple Records label. The single was produced by Paul McCartney and recorded on location near Bradford in 1968. Look at the record label above and you'll see the artist labelled as John Foster and Son Ltd. Black Dyke Band. Not many companies can claim such a pop cultural legacy.

Saul Bass - A Life in Film and Design

2012-03-02T16:30:00.000Z

Saul Bass - The Big Picture

Exciting times, chums. People have waited years for this book to be published and now it is amongst us. London-based publishers Laurence King, independent British publishers for 20 years, have released Saul Bass: A Life in Film & Design by Jennifer Bass and Pat Kirkham.

Saul Bass is one of the most striking graphic designers of the 20th Century. We all know his designs for the posters and title sequences of some of our favourite films, Hitchcock's Vertigo and The Birds, and Preminger's Anatomy of a Murder. All these designs are in the book and so many more less well known, such as his work on logos and corporate identities - Quaker Oats and Minolta to name a couple.

Smashing Preface

In his entertaining preface to the book, Martin Scorcese says of the graphic style of Bass that he "found and distilled the poetry of the modern, industrialized world."

The Book

Saul Bass: A Life in Film & Design is designed by Saul Bass’s daughter Jennifer and written by design historian Pat Kirkham, who has also written on Charles and Ray Eames. The book, which has 1,400 illustrations, many never published before, is a definitive visual record of the legacy of Saul Bass.

The Shame of The Tweed Pig

I'm pretty sure Saul Bass would have one or two things to say about The Tweed Pig logo we knocked up. Looking at it right now, I feel shamed into wanting to do something about it. But not enough to interrupt this cup of tea. Maybe tomorrow.

Saul Bass Gallery

The samples here include:

The 1956 album cover to Frank Sinatra's Tone Poems of Color.
The 1958 poster to the film Anatomy of a Murder.
The 1973 album cover to Japanese musician Stomu Yamashta's East Wind project Freedom is Frightening.

Wind Words from Freedom is Frightening is a lovely, otherworldly tune. It was also included, fittingly, on the soundtrack to Nicolas Roeg's film The Man Who Fell to Earth, with David Bowie. Much of Stomu's output in the 70s was recorded in England, so - according to our arbitrary rules - we can claim this track as a British classic. Hidden gem is a bit of catch-all though, so it would have sneaked in one way or another.

Edward Green - Q & A Session

2012-03-01T10:12:00.000Z

Information from Edward Green for English Shoe-Lovers

With her Staedtler Tradition and Moleskine Pocket Reporter in hand, young Mrs Tweed squeezed shoe knowledge from the brain of Euan Denholm, Branding Advisor at Edward Green. Following our original post on Edward Green, where we looked at some of their shoes, Euan provided some very interesting background information on Edward Green for lovers of English shoes.

Many thanks to Euan for sharing his time and expertise.

Q & A with Euan Denholm, Branding Advisor at Edward Green

What are your most popular lines?
Our plain captoe Oxford - the Chelsea - is very popular. It's a style which appeals globally but in Japan the Chelsea name is almost a brand in itself. It comes on two lasts - the more classic, rounded 202, and the slightly slimmer, more contemporary 82.

The Galway boot is another favourite which is born of our military heritage - before the war we were apparently the biggest maker of officers' boots for the forces. We had a gentleman who came in before Christmas who has worn the Galway in the Falklands, and was very thankful he did watching comrades start on their umpteenth pair of army issue boots.

The Dover (below) perhaps exhibits the finest craftsmanship. It's got what's known as a 'Norwegian apron' - and the upper is sewn with a pig's bristle needle. The Dover is also very popular in Japan. Indeed we make it on another heritage last for the Japanese - the 32 - which has a more classic, weightier quality.

Tweedy's Note: Norwegian apron refers to the triangular or apron-shaped piece on top and split front.

This year we've found a strong market for our new Oakdale long-wing brogue. Although it's a longwing, it's on our 82 last and looks very slim and elegant.

The Lakes Collection of country shoes will perhaps be of most interest to Tweed Pig readers. Four classic shoes made up with storm welts and double soles for a more rugged construction and look. What to reach for with a pair of Incotex trousers.

Tweedy's Note: Incotex trousers - friends of The Tweed Pig, the Italian heritage label is part of the Slowear group.

What are your biggest markets?
Internationally Japan and America are very strong. The Japanese have a very particular eye for quality and detail. France, Italy, Germany, Hong Kong, South Korea and Russia all make good appearances. Certainly our shop on Jermyn Street is very important to the business - but it's a real range of nationalities who shop with us there - people will fly in especially, or arrange business trips with time allowed for a visit to Jermyn Street.

What's the profile of your customer? Have you seen a change in your type of customers, new younger customers?
There's really quite a wide range of customers but the common unifier is that they care about detail and quality, and like to make an effort with their dress. Our customers could be leading businessmen or lawyers wanting to look impeccable in their Savile Row suit and black oxfords; they could be a stylist looking for shoes which really complete their look; they could be a groom looking forward to a special pair of shoes for his wedding day.

The age profile of customers probably shifts a little from market to market. But certainly in Britain there's a growing hunger for quality and craftsmanship amongst younger buyers. That's something we very much need to engage with and encourage.

What are your plans for the future?
We've worked hard at segmenting the range over the last year and ensuring that there's a regular stream of new variants of classics. Really you should always find something suitable in Jermyn Street now without having to make up a Made-to-Order.

So we'll have new shoes in interesting new leathers - a monk strap and simple oxford in cloud, a burnished grey; a loafer, the Greenwich in navy cordovan. We've a smart, simple new group for this Spring and Summer season - with a precise, professional look.

Behind the scenes we're busy putting in a new IT system which is going to help us better serve our customers and that will dove-tail with a new website too.

Is heritage a source of inspiration or a creative constraint?
It's very much a source of inspiration. But it should be referential rather than reverential. Shapes and colours shift over time but men's shoes don't revolutionise.

Have you seen a change in the preferences of your customers for particular styles?
Different customers look for different kinds of shoe, but generally there's been an increased in interest in the texture of heritage which the Tweed Pig is concerned with. Here in the UK we've launched the Lakes Collection of storm welted English shoes made in rugged cordovans, suedes and country calves. We have a special sub-range of archival style specifically for Japan.

There's also definitely been increased interest in colours - the best tend to be quite toned down but with an interesting base. For example Midnight has a blue base, but depending on what light you can catch it from it can look like an interesting grey.

Tweedy's Thought: The British have such incredible companies on their doorstep who, like Edward Green, are committed to producing the finest products. They have built their names on unstinting devotion to quality. Quality means the best materials and time-consuming attention to detail. Quality cannot be rushed. Something the Japanese appreciate and seek out. But quality also means solidity and longevity. Quality products will maintain better and last longer. And the companies that keep quality at their core will last too. The shoemakers that have lasted in Northampton are the ones that remained committed to quality rather than trying to compete on price and slim margins. As we have said before, buy cheap and you buy twice. It's good to see that younger British buyers are recognising the attractions of quality British products.

It's All About the Leather - Edward Green Shoes - The Manufacture

2012-02-29T10:19:00.000Z

Edward Green 1890

Edward Green is a classic English shoemaker that was established in 1890. They have a shop in Jermyn Street, London, and the shoes are manufactured in the shoemaking capital of the world - Northampton. They have a line of ready-to-wear shoes, but also make bespoke.

What makes their shoes so special? It's all about the leather they say. Edward Green uses natural burnishing calfskin for their leathers. The leather isn't completely finished in the tannery, but dyed with a base that preserves the clarity of the grain and allows Edward Green to work their magic in the final stages of construction.

As the character of the leather is fully open, it requires expert cutting (or 'clicking') before the final finish of polishing and burnishing the completed shoe. This very manually-intensive work creates a shoe leather with unmatched depth and character that improves with age.

The Best Leather for Shoes?

Edward Green uses calfskins from the best Italian tanneries. The leathers match the requirement of the shoe, such as:

Natural Burnishing Calf Leather where the final colour is created through the layering of the original tannery dye and the burnishing, antiquing and polishing on the finished shoe. which gives a very particular character and depth, as used in the city shoes.

Example: The Oakdale Slate above.

Country Calf Leather with a heavier construction and sole that can take the knocks is used on their robust country shoes.

Example: The Galway in Rosewood country calf below.

What's a 'Notched' or 'Fudge' Welt?

A welt is the band of leather which runs around the base of the upper to connect the upper to the sole. A storm welt has a raised protrusion which helps keep the elements from seeping in between the upper and sole. Sometimes they have small notches on them which move any water back down off the welt and gives a different look.

The Windermere with notched welt:

More to Come

Tweedy's Note: the Edward Green people are very knowledgeable about their craft and, most importantly, seem willing to speak to us. They've been very helpful. I'll get young Mrs Tweed to find out some more on the company for us.

By tomorrow please Mrs TP. No pressure.

Olympic Preparation - Archie Foal

2012-02-27T09:55:00.000Z

Olympian Socks

The Olympic Games in London are just round the corner, much to the dismay of most Londoners. Team GB have quite a few entrants for the shooting events, which include pistol, rifle and shotgun. Hopefully, the shooting will be confined to the stadia. Getting behind the team, we've tracked down something that might just give our shooters the edge. In case there isn't an official shooting sock - and if not why not? - might we suggest adoption of the Lars Olympic from Archie Foal?

The Lars Olympic socks in navy, red and white are made in England by a company of Master Knitters established in 1850. They are knitted on Bentley knitting machines from a blend of Angora and Australian superfine merino wool that's produced in Italy, which makes them incredibly soft but durable. The garter is buttoned, so you can wear with or without.

Archie Foal

Archie Foal was established in November 2010 with the purpose of working with English knitters and manufacturers to create classic socks and knitwear in the finest yarns.

Everything is made in the UK, actually in three of the Home Nations. The socks are knitted in Wales and Nottingham, England and the knitwear is made in the Scottish Borders.

Overcoats Go Pop - The Dirk Bogarde Proposition

2012-02-24T00:04:00.000Z

The Independent Overcoat

The overcoat, that long and heavy woollen coat with its few classic styles and military variations, was a staple in the British pop music scene of the early 80s. Well, the indie end of pop, at least. Using selective memory and confirmation bias, let's put forward a theory as to why.

The Bogarde Proposition

Firstly, Morrissey wore an overcoat quite a lot, which led to its semi-popularity amongst young people. Morrissey's singing about life in rainy Manchester practically demanded an overcoat (and a raincoat for that matter).

Tweedy's Thought: Now Morrissey sings about Pasolini and Rome, perhaps his adoption of Angelo Galasso shirts makes some kind of sense?

Why the overcoat? A bit of cultural archaeology gives us Exhibit A: Dirk Bogarde. This is a photo of Dirk taken from the film Victim.

Now let's take a look at this photo of Morrissey:

Spot anything? We know that Morrissey is a fan of Dirk Bogarde. Is it too hard to imagine that Bogarde may have had some influence on Morrissey's adoption of the overcoat in the 80s? Or is that I re-watched Victim the other day and was looking for an excuse to tie these photos together? Only you can decide.

I Was Looking for a Coat and Then I Found a Coat

I've been seeking out off-the-peg examples of the overcoat with raglan sleeve, which extend in a single piece to the collar. The brief is full-length overcoats that Motley Crue wouldn't be seen dead in.

I've seen too many short overcoats, lots of over-styled overcoats with zips and pockets in odd places, and overcoats in unpleasant colours. However, Magee of Ireland, established 1886, has one that fits the bill. The Corrib is a full-length raglan overcoat in heavy Donegal tweed. I can almost see Dirk and Morrissey nodding their approval at this one. Let me know if you spot any others.

Indie Pop Overcoats in Action

The Bible (Heringbone Overcoat):

H2O (Dogtooth Overcoat):

Campaign for Real Tea - Teapigs Tea

2012-02-22T23:16:00.000Z

Teapigs Tea

A relative newcomer to the tea industry, teapigs was founded by tea evangelist Nick Kilby and tea addict Louise Allen (pictured above) in 2006. Based in Brentford, England, teapigs blends and sells whole-leaf teas loose or in bags (tea temples). We first came to know about them with their admirable campaign for real tea. The campaign is trying to get cafes and other outlets to replace tea made with the dusty fannings that are used in standard teabags with proper whole-leaf tea. Commendable.

Not Quite an Everyday Brew

The teapigs Everyday Brew, a Great British classic, is their best-seller. Peppermint and Earl Grey are also popular. If you are undecided on what to choose, a mood-o-meter on their web site will help you select teas based on your mood. I chose fussy, but podgy is the most popular mood, apparently.

Tea-Drinkers Take Risks

The company has been surprised by the adventurousness of their customers. Some stick to their regular blend of tea, but many are willing to try all types. Some will reach for different blends through the day, glugging mugs of session tea, such as the Everyday Brew, in the morning, then switching to the subtle flavours of Jasmine Pearls in the evening.

Tea-Making Basics from Teapigs

Louise reminds us of the tea-making basics:

Start with a good tea – make it whole leaf, real tea. ( teapigs ideally!)
Always use fresh water from the tap – not the re-boiled stuff that has been sitting in the kettle since last week.
If you are making black tea – pour the boiling water onto the leaves as soon as the kettle has boiled. With green, white or oolong teas, water off the boil is preferable.
If you are making it in a cup, put the milk in after the tea ( only for black teas) - if you are using a pot, put the milk in the cup first.

Louise says, "Black tea is great, but be brave and try some other kinds of tea – my personal favourite is oolong."

Manly Tea Choice

Realising what a manly set of readers The Tweed Pig is likely to attract, Louise recommends their manliest tea, Yerba Mate. The leaf is South American and is reputed to contain "practically all of the vitamins necessary to sustain life". This probably means that we can live on tea and cake alone. I knew it.

Cad and the Dandy - Suit Buying Course - Lesson 3

2012-02-20T23:28:00.000Z

The Final Lesson

I know you're tired, but don't think of dropping out of the course now, you're nearly there. You completed lessons 1 and 2. This is the final lesson, the finishing line is in sight.

It's time for some motivational talk from James Sleater at Cad and the Dandy to get you to the end:

"Tailoring is an art form not a science and it takes years of training to become a cutter, coatmaker or trouser maker. Each jacket alone takes around 50 hours to craft. Below are the Savile Row guidelines which our suits are made to."

Lesson 3 - Making the Suit - Savile Row Guidelines by Cad and the Dandy

With these guidelines, you will know what to demand of your bespoke suit.

Jackets

Inlays – inlays to allow adjustment to the main body seams
Linings – felled by hand
Vent and Front Edge – hand prick-stitched throughout
Breast pocket – slanting breast pocket with hand stitched border
Top Collar – hand draw-stitched onto the facing
Front button-holes – hand-stitched and left lapel button hole with sewn flower loop
Cuffs – featuring opening slit and hand-stitched button holes
Armhole – lining-eased and hand felled
Front pockets – hand top-stitching on pocket and gorge
Sleeves – set in by hand
Shoulder pads and canvas – hand-cut and shaped
Jacket foreparts – fully hand-canvassed

Trousers

International waistband – with inlays of 3-4 inches and side-seams for adjustments
Buttons – sewn by hand in cross stitch
Buttonholes – cut and sewn by hand
Fly – hand-stitched
Trousers fronts – half-lined for comfort
Seat seam – hand-stitched
Pockets, band lining and back curtains - sewn in by hand

Well Done!

Congratulations. You have been awarded The Tweed Pig Technical Certificate in Suit Buying. With special thanks to Cad and the Dandy for putting the information together for us.

Hopefully, this short course has helped you brush up on your suit purchasing skills. Now go out there and 'buy suit'.

Tweed Pig Pin-up - Victorian Cigarette Suit Man

2012-02-20T00:48:00.000Z

Anonymous Victorian Man in Cigarette Suit

We're persevering with the Tweed Pig Pin-up series, you may or may not be glad to hear. This time we're going for someone who is long dead and we know nothing about. A tough proposition you might think, but take a close look at the man's dress. That's right. He's wearing a suit made of cigarette packets. On many levels, we thought, that makes him a good candidate.

About the Photo

The photo is of a Victorian man, of seemingly humble means, posing with a bicycle at the back of a terraced house. I've had this photo for many years now and I don't know anything about it. I guess he's dressed for a celebration, something like May Day. Imagine the scene of him riding his bicycle dressed in the suit, his English moustache fluttering in the wind. What can we see in those eyes? Pride? Amusement?

France Gall in The Pudding Club?

2012-02-17T16:26:00.000Z

Gallic-flavoured Pop

A genre of French (and Spanish) pop music in the 60s called 'ye-ye' was influenced by British beat music and American rock-n-roll. The name is a continental twist on 'yeah, yeah'.

Mostly, the songs were sung by women. We had the British beat girls such as Cilla, Dusty, Lulu, Sandie and many others. The French had the ye-ye girls to give pop tunes a Gallic flavour, including Françoise Hardy, Sylvie Vartan and France Gall.

France v England

France Gall recorded a list song in 1967 called Made in France. The song tries to pin down the differences between France and England using representative people and objects. How did they keep the song down to three minutes?

On the British side, Liberty gets a mention, so too Burlington Arcade. A few 60s faces are in there and, perhaps surprisingly, that swinging British institution The Salvation Army. How might the list change now? Perhaps you have some ideas?

Made in France

Le pudding et le shetland, David Bailey, Mary Quant
Jerk and Radio Caroline, "Caroline" no "Caroline".
It's made in England.
Accordéon qui balance, les gauloises et la pétanque
Tour Eiffel et camembert et Maurice Chevalier, c'est made in France.

Les Français, les Anglais peuvent toujours essayer.
Ils ne seront jamais, jamais pareils, pareils, pareils, pareils, pareils.

Les beatniks aux cheveux longs like the young Napoléon
Les Dollies pas compliquées, difficult à expliquer.
It's made in England.
Les guitares romantiques, the sono no terrific.
Oh ! My darling I love you, mon amour, mon amour.
C'est made in France.

Entre Londres et Calais, il y a un fossé, un si petit bateau
Et puis de l'eau, de l'eau, de l'eau, de l'eau, de l'eau.

Mini jupes et maxi bottes, Liberty jusqu'à non-stop
Burlington, Julie Christie and the Salvation army.
It's made in England.
Le Beaujolais, le pastis, les British promènent à Nice
Et le tunnel sous la Manche, but the tunnel sous la Manche
C'est made in France.

No, made in England, non, made in France.
No, made in England, non, made in France.

The Pudding Club

Gall was wise in mentioning that Great British institution 'le pudding'.

Enthusiasts at The Pudding Club are devoted to preserving classic British desserts, such as Spotted Dick or Jam Roly-Poly (Dead Man's Arm). The type of puddings that 'stick to your ribs'.

At their weekly meetings in the Cotswolds, England, The Pudding Club presents seven traditional puddings to try and you vote for your favourite. You and your spoon decide.

If you cannot get to the Cotswolds, the club launched a range of puddings that are now sold in supermarkets. The Ginger Syrup Pudding, soaked in golden syrup and topped with chopped stem ginger, is proving a smash hit. Best eaten with lashings of custard, as I'm sure France Gall would have it. Vive le pudding.

Three Ways House and The Pudding Club
Mickleton
Chipping Campden
Gloucestershire
GL55 6SB
UK

Deft as a Brush - Vuflix and Simpsons

2012-02-16T07:05:00.000Z

The Isle of Man Connection

I'm sure you're aware that it's impossible to shave properly without a badger-hair shaving brush. But did you know the connection between shaving brushes and the Isle of Man?

Alexander Simpson started making his legendary Simpson's shaving brushes in the East End of London in 1919. Following the loss of his factory in World War II, he moved his business to the West Country. The brand became part of Progress Shaving Brush (Vulfix) Ltd in 2008, who also make Vulfix brushes. The company is located on the Isle of Man in the British Isles.

The home to two of the big guns in British shaving brushes - Simpson's and Vulfix - is now the Isle of Man, location of the infamous TT Races and its motorcycling close-shaves.

Anatomy of a Shaving Brush

The majority of Simpson's brush handles are made using an ivory-coloured resin that is hand-turned on a lathe. The handles of a Vulfix brush may be made of pewter, wood, onyx or silver. You can see a Vuflix Old Original in pewter with matching pewter soap dish above.

The handles are polished and filled by hand with a knot of badger hair in varying grades. The hair for each knot is sorted, weighed and tied by a skilled brushmaker.

Below we have a Simpson's Chubby, and the indispensable travel brush, stamped with the distinctive SIMPSON seal. Further below is the "Major", which was originally designed for the Himalayan explorer, Major Victor Beeching.

What Grade of Badger Hair Should I Choose?

The various grades of badger hair are categorised as Pure Badger, Best/Super Badger & Silvertip Badger.

Pure Badger
Pure Badger hair is dark and silver in appearance. This grade of hair is firmer to the touch and helps exfoliate the skin prior to shaving.

Best/Super Badger
Best Badger is softer than Pure Badger and has excellent water retention qualities. In appearance, it has a unique dark band capped by light tips. The tapered head shape of Simpson’s Best Badger brushes is achieved without the use of the trimming machinery (unlike other manufacturers), giving wonderfully smooth and soft tips.

Silvertip Badger
Silvertip Badger is the finest Badger hair available in the manufacture of shaving brushes and originates from the neck of a badger. The hair is untreated and untrimmed, simply shaped by hand to give an exceptionally soft feel.

Simpson's Shaving Tips

Simpson's share their tips for a decent shave.

Shower or bathe before shaving, or warm the face with a hot flannel.
Use plenty of hot water and shave in a warm environment.
Protect the skin with a good skin food or moisturiser. (Trumper's Coral Skin Food for example)
Use a Simpson badger shaving brush with a quality shaving cream.
Apply a North to South paint brush motion to lift the beard.
Shave with the beard, never against the grain.
Rinse the razor blade frequently in hot water.
Rinse face with cold water and gently pat dry to close pores.
After shaving use a good moisturiser or skin food.
Avoid applying alcohol-based products to the face after shaving. These will damage the skin.
Rinse shaving brush thoroughly and store in accordance with instructions.

Private White on Parade

2012-02-14T07:50:00.000Z

Attention Private White VC

Private White VC is a family-sized and family-owned men's clothing business "inspired by family heritage and born out of a devotion to British manufacturing". The factory, which opened at the turn of the 20th century, remains in the heart of Manchester. Having changed ownership and name over the years, but always having a reputation for manufacturing high-quality garments, the company is now run by Michael Stoll and James Eden - Private White's great-grandson.

The original Private White returned from World War 1 a hero who was awarded the Victoria Cross. He started work at the factory as a cutter, but later became the owner. The company has remained in the 'rag trade' ever since.

Their factory has a dedicated staff of 80 who make clothes for their own label as well as for other prestigious brands, such as Purdey and Holland and Holland. It has also manufactured for Aquascutum, Burberry and Nigel Cabourn.

James Eden is famously hands-on. He's at the Manchester factory during the week and working in Private White's London shops at the weekend getting feedback from customers. At the vanguard of the new appreciation of local manufacturing in this country, he encourages young people eager to learn the trade to contact them about apprenticeships.

The brand is, of course, big in Japan where they have a distribution partner specialising in heritage British labels.

Designer Heaven

Nick Ashley, son of the famous British interiors and clothing designer Laura Ashley, is the in-house designer. At his disposal is the company's mouth-watering archive of a hundred years of British men's clothing design. With 5000 pieces, it's possibly the biggest of its kind in the UK.

You can see the influence of this archive in the look of the coat and guernsey sweater below and materials used.

Ventile Coat

The Insulated SB4 - Cinnamon Ventile raincoat uses Ventile - that silent, weatherproof fabric - on the outer. The coat has been worked to keep stitch detail to a minimum.

Guernsey Sweater

Everyone needs a Guernsey sweater. Private White's Guernsey Sweater – Tobacco is in lambswool, which has the distinctive tightly-knit fibres of this type of fishing sweater that was commonly used by the British Royal Navy for its insulating and water-repelling properties.

They also do a blue version with the traditional 'boat' neckline.

Shops

Private White V.C
55 Lambs Conduit St Bloomsbury
London W1N 3NB

Private White V.C
57 Ledbury Road
London W11 2AA

Dege and Skinner - Britain's Best Young Tailor 2012

2012-02-12T22:36:00.000Z

Britain's Best Young Tailor 2012

Commendable that the BBC is broadcasting programmes profiling young British people who are making a mark in various trades and crafts. The latest offering was a programme to find Britain's Best Young Tailor 2012. The finalists filmed for the programme were selected from hundreds of candidates.

I wanted to see a bit more needle-and-thread action and learn a bit more of the craft, but it was an entertaining programme. The apprentices conducted a number of tailoring trials judged by tailors Mark Powell and Richard Anderson (we'll be reviewing Richard's book on the gritty world of tailoring soon).

The programme included a segment where the apprentice tailors were questioned on their knowledge. Did you know that Henry Poole created the first dinner jacket? A couple of the apprentices didn't. I won't repeat some of the answers. Even I'm blushing.

About the Winner

Emma Martin, apprentice at the Savile Row tailors Dege & Skinner, was named the winner at the end of the trials. Emma is a former student of Newham College and is hoping to complete her apprenticeship as a Coat Maker with Dege & Skinner later this year after two years of training with the late Stefano Tormambe and Dege & Skinner's Head Cutter, Peter Ward.

Congratulations Emma.

All About the Detail

I was slightly fixated on Mark Powell's details during the programme. The shoes and watch chains in particular. Anybody else?

Britishness German-Style - Living La Vida Gestaltungsort

2012-02-10T01:30:00.000Z

German Reader Quizzed for Intelligence

Having cornered our German reader (and honorary Tweed Piglet) Nicolas, who had the temerity to get in touch with us about the Tweed television series, I wasn't going to let him get away unscathed. He needed to be squeezed for intelligence for my next trip to Berlin.

Milking our German Reader - Intelligence Gathered

After intensive questioning, here's what our highly-trained field operatives came back with:

The name of an interesting club & shop in Germany
A question to ponder

Chelsea Farmer's Club - Berlin

A recommendation for British ex-pats in Germany. The Chelsea Farmer's Club is a club and shop based in Berlin and Dusseldorf. Nicolas says they have, "enthusiasmus für das wahre in der ware", which is roughly translated as "enthusiasm for the good in goods". It's aimed at those with a taste for British classic clothing.

Club Philosophy

Never wear short-sleeve shirts.
Prefer regional cuisine and the British wardrobe.
Never use an electric grill.
In the city appreciate the bicycle, the diesel in the country.
Rejoice in life and promote the arts.
Be calm and keep dancing when your partner or partners cannot dance.
For swimming or indoor sports events a healthy scepticism will prevail.
Like classical music in the church. Other music should involve your legs.
Walks without dogs are allowed - but not recommended.
When enjoying summer in Weimar, a nap by the Ilm is essential.
See the world as a wonderful gestaltungsort (place that can be shaped by you).
Never forget the motto of John Ruskin: "There is no wealth but life. Life including all its powers of love, of joy, and of admiration."

Tweedy's Thought: Bullet 2 is a bit of a mantra here at Tweed Towers.

Ponder-piece: Do British Classics Travel?

Nicolas pondered the philosophical question of whether or not British classic clothing travels well. Is a German in Berlin dressed head-to-toe in Cordings wearing a costume? That sort of thing.

Well we're all wearing costumes in one way or another aren't we? Here we may be straying into Jungian archetypes, and ideas of self and persona.

Let's hover nearer to the boundary of pretension and bring in Kantian reasoning. What drives our choices? Could the choice of brogue over flip-flop be simply explained as an a priori intuition? Or in the words of Sammy Cahn, "you've either got or you haven't got style"?

Tweedy's Final Thought: To attune yourself to the right mental attitude for wearing British classics, just become an Englishman.

Tweed on Film - Drama on the Hebrides

2012-02-08T23:50:00.000Z

One of Britian's Oldest Brands - Harris Tweed

One of our German readers kindly contacted us and suggested it might be a good idea to post the films from the documentary series Tweed originally produced by the BBC. Being lazy and seeing the opportunity of knocking together an easy piece on the back of someone else's work, we thought it was a great idea. Danke Nicolas.

In all seriousness though, it's a great film and did much to bring the precariousness of the future of Harris Tweed to people's attention. And as we're a repository of British classics, it fits nicely with our brief.

The Fight for the Heart of Harris Tweed

Genuine Harris Tweed is hand-spun and hand-woven at home by Outer Hebridean islanders. Against the modern curses of fast fashion and throwaway culture, as they say in the film, "If ever there is a time to wrap ourselves in this beautiful, sustainable ethnic British cloth it's now."

Like any good drama the series had its heroes and villains. Our award-winning friend, indie weaver Donald John Mackay has a role - heroic, of course. We'll leave you to decide who are the villains. There are engaging walk-on parts for tweed from other parts of the British Isles and tweed fanciers too.

Since the film was made in 2009 there has been a mighty shift in attitude towards provenance, heritage and integrity in clothing and cloth manufacture. Right now the future is looking brighter for Harris Tweed.

Do Weavers Wear Tweed?

Rewatching, I noticed that the tweed weavers wear little tweed themselves. Is it like fisherman who rarely eat fish having handled them all day?

Tweed Episode 1/3 Trouble Looms from Pssst on Vimeo.

Tweed Episode 2/3 Harassed Tweed (part 2 of 2) from Pssst on Vimeo.

Tweed Episode 3/3 Hanging by a Thread from Pssst on Vimeo.

Floris - Q & A Session with Edward Bodenham

2012-02-07T09:43:00.000Z

A Cause for Jubilation with London's Celebrated Perfumery

It's going to be a busy time at Floris this year. As suppliers to the Royal Family, Floris will be involved in the celebrations of the Queen's Diamond Jubilee. And if I know athletes, I imagine those competing in the London Olympics this summer will be heading to Jermyn Street to stuff their Rimowa suitcases with their classic British scents.

In this context, we extend our thanks to Edward Bodenham, Marketing Director at Floris, who took time over a pot of tea and a dish of Welsh rarebit in Fortnums to speak with young Mrs Tweed on scents and (British) sensibility.

Edward has worked within the company for over fifteen years and is part of the 9th generation of the Floris family. Floris is a small family business, so he is closely involved in the creation of new fragrances and in most other areas of the business. He works alongside his two cousins Tom and Lucy, and his sister Emily who has recently joined the business.

Q & A with Edward Bodenham

What is special about Floris products?
Floris is unique in being the longest running perfumery as far as we know anywhere in the world. We are still a family business and have never changed hands so are very fortunate to be able to have retained all the formula books and expertise passed down from over 280 years of creating fragrances. The fact that we are all direct family members working in the business means that we naturally have such a passion for the quality of our products, which I’m sure our customers recognise and appreciate.

Where is Floris most popular?
We are most popular in the UK, but have many customers all over the world. Our biggest export markets are currently Italy and Germany.

What is Floris' best-selling male fragrance?
Our best-selling male fragrance is No.89 which has recently overtaken Elite in popularity. It is a quintessentially English gentleman’s fragrance, clean with fresh citrus cologne top notes and a distinctive spicy woody character.

How do you arrive at the names for the perfumes?
Many of the names for our ladies fragrances, like Night Scented Jasmine are taken from the flower that features most prominently within the heart notes of the fragrance. One of our men’s fragrances, called JF, is named after our founder Juan Floris. One of our most recent men’s fragrances, Mahon Leather, is named after the capital of Minorca, birthplace of Juan Floris. With Minorca under British possession, he sailed to London and married his English rose Elizabeth before setting up the shop at 89 Jermyn Street.

Do you think preferences for particular scents have changed overtime?
In the very early days of perfumery, fragrances tended to be much stronger and less sophisticated. This is due to the fact that not only did people not cleanse as often as they do now, but also only certain oils were able to be distilled. Now, due to much more advanced distillation techniques we are able to extract many more refined and subtle essences to use in the creation of a scent. Generally I think that preferences have changed to people wanting a fragrance that has many different nuances and represents an element of their personality in some way. More recently I think that there seems to be a trend to customers wanting to find a fragrance that is a little bit more special and individual and is not necessarily something that is the latest ‘big release’.

How do you preserve your heritage but continue to innovate?
Our heritage is incredibly important to us and has provided us with our own rich and unique expertise in perfume making. This expertise coupled with the various creative ideas and passions of the family members working closely with our perfumer, means that we can strike a good balance between trying new things but with this wealth of experience behind this. With any new fragrance that we are working on, I like to think what if our forefathers were able to smell them and whether they would approve.

What should people look for when they are buying a perfume?
Perfume is one of the good and often fun things in life and is very much about personal preference. I think that people should look for a fragrance that they feel a connection to in some way and one that suits their mood. Many people choose a different fragrance depending on various things such as, the time of day, the time of year, the weather and also generally what mood they are in. Something that many people use as a guide to finding their perfect fragrance is the compliments that they receive when they are wearing it. Ultimately though I think that if it feels right to you and makes you feel good then you can’t go far wrong.

If you could capture in a bottle a particular scent, what would that be?
As something that I would not necessarily wear but would love to capture the wonderful smell of the fresh air early on a crisp sunny winter’s morning with just a hint of wood smoke in the background.

Did you always intend to work for Floris?
Yes, I have grown up with Floris and have fond memories of visiting my father and grandfather at work as a boy, and working in the shop in my school holidays. I have always felt a strong emotional connection to the fragrances I smelt regularly whilst growing up, along with a real passion for the company. It did always feel like a very natural step to join the family business.

Are you loyal to one fragrance or do you like to change often? Do you wear different fragrances in summer and winter, day and night?
The fragrance that I am most loyal to would have to be Elite, partly because of growing up with it, as I was five when it was launched. Also though, it’s a scent that every time I smell I am always in awe at actually how good and how complex a fragrance it is. Recently I have been wearing one of our latest new fragrances, Mahon Leather, which is very warm with a gentle spicy note which I love for these chilly days.

Moving on from Floris and the world of perfumes...

Is there any particular item of clothing that you enjoy buying and are very particular about?
I’m afraid that I’m not really one for buying clothes. I have my trusty items of clothing so when I do buy I look for fairly simple, but good quality clothing and which I know will become a future trusty item of clothing. Jeans & cords mainly. My wife is very good at knowing what sort of clothes I like so I am lucky enough to be spoilt by her usually at Birthdays and Christmases.

British classic?
Foster & Son shoes on Jermyn Street. Quality and true craftsmanship at its best.
On a different note altogether, the Brown Betty. I do love a good pot of tea and I am very pleased with my genuine British-made Brown Betty.

[Tweedy: Foster and Son piece coming soon. Possibly Brown Betty too.]

Hidden gem?
Dukes Hotel Bar, St James. Their expert head barman Alessandro makes the most fantastic cocktails including the legendary Vesper, and the new Fleming 89, which was inspired by our No.89 fragrance. Strange, but true.

[Tweedy: Ian Fleming mentions Floris in his James Bond novels.]

Tweedy's Thought: The interior of the Floris shop in Jermyn Street is an object lesson in leaving well alone. I can think of many heart-breaking examples of shops and pubs where the owners have panicked and thought they needed to chase the latest interior trends, ripping out all the charm and history that had accumulated over the years in the process. Just look at that original mahogany below. Marvellous. So warm and welcoming. Imagine if it was all removed and in came the minimalist look of a bedroom in a ryokan. Shudder.

Cold Remedies - Otis Batterbee

2012-02-05T23:20:00.000Z

Tweedy Catches Cold

Bloody cold at the moment. And I have a cold to boot. This calls for some old-school measures to keep warm. Hip flask of course, but also the trusty fur hat for outdoors, and that classic gentleman's tool for keeping warm inside - the hot water bottle.

Hit the Bottle with Otis Batterbee

Hot water bottles work. Fact. Particularly in drafty old Tweed Towers. But you wouldn't want a Hello Kitty-shaped one would you? You would? I knew you were joking.

What about this one below? It's by British company Otis Batterbee. Made in England, the hot water bottle comes with a more refined woollen cover in Prince of Wales check suiting fabric with a velvet back.

Designer and founder, Otis Batterbee, says the core values of his company are "quality construction, good design and the use of the best possible materials."

The hot water bottle acts as a suitable surrogate young Mrs Tweed, but with an evocative and reassuring smell of warm rubber. Actually, I'm getting a little too attached to it. Maybe a few more days of freezing temperatures wouldn't harm.

Saint Valentine's Spray - Floris

2012-02-02T17:05:00.000Z

A Valentine's Warning

Valentine's Day is around the corner. Just thought I'd mention, as I don't want you to miss a romantic opportunity or to get into trouble for forgetting. You know how we are? I'm thinking a Floris scent would make a nice gift.

Bouquet de La Reine - A Present for Queen Victoria

Bouquet de La Reine would be a nice choice for a lady-friend on Valentine's Day. It has a romantic story that you can appropriate and demonstrate that you're all heart beneath that tough, stoic exterior. Romantic story: Bouquet de La Reine was originally created by Floris as a wedding present for Queen Victoria on her marriage to Prince Albert in 1840.

James Floris created the scent in the Floris perfumery in Jermyn Street and it's a beautifully balanced classic floral fragrance. A good choice of gift. But don't overdo the soppiness. You don't want her to think you're a 'wet lettuce'.

Santal - Tweedy Spoils Valentine's Day

I didn't mean to spoil the surprise, but I discovered a bottle of Santal in a drawer the other day. Exhibit A below. A splendid woody and lightly spicy sandalwood fragrance that is perfect for day and night at this time of year. I'm hoping it comes my way as I'm almost finished with my bottle of Mahon Leather. And if it doesn't come my way, questions need to be asked.

Floris Q & A

We broke this news a while back, but we'll break it again as we've been rather slow off the mark: a Q & A with Floris is promised very soon...

Cad and the Dandy - Suit Buying Course - Lesson 2

2012-01-31T11:20:00.000Z

Places on the Course

Hello again. Glad to see you've returned for lesson 2 of the Suit Buying Course. If you're new, don't worry, there are still a few places and lesson 1 is still available for you to catch up.

This lesson concentrates on style pointers for your suit.

Lesson 2 - Style Advice for Your Suit by Cad and the Dandy

Choice of Cloth. Opt for a classic, blue or grey if it's a wardrobe staple. Pinstripes and chalk-stripes seem to be in the fashion doldrums where as more adventurous cloths in the Prince of Wales check vein are back with a vigour.

Make sure it’s wool, and that you know which maker it's from. Do your research on the cloth-maker. It's amazing how many people are duped by the false claims of lower-end tailors who buy poor quality cloth from cheaper Asian countries.

[Tweedy - some of the cloth makers and merchants we've covered: Abraham Moon, William Halstead, Scabal, Fox Brothers, Harrison's, H. Lesser, Porter and Harding & champion Harris Tweed weaver Donald John Mackay.]
Style Elements. Keep it simple - single-breasted, one or two button. Slanted pockets, double vents and a notch lapel should set you on the right road.
The Detail. A man who knows - knows! It's the little details that stand out and those in the know will spot them a mile off. Hand sewn button holes are the easiest way to show that the suit has been made with not only skill but attention. Avoid keyhole shaped button holes on the lapel.

The final lesson is coming soon. Class dismissed.

Lavenham - Patch Perfect

2012-01-30T09:20:00.000Z

Purple Patch for Lavenham

What are your thoughts on patches? An eye patch looks rather dashing, particularly on a pirate or the man from the American Hathaway Shirt ads (below). Hard to criticise vegetable patches. But what about patches on clothes? Fine on elbows and unacceptable on knees? Patches on the elbows of your tweed jacket could say you spend a lot of time poring over Anglo -Saxon manuscripts and dusty tomes. I'd say that was a good message to convey. Patches on the knees of your trousers could say you spend, well, a lot of time on all fours. Not so good.

When it comes to elbow patches, they're obviously more fitting on country casual than city pinstripe. Patches in contrasting colours are probably best avoided - too Versace. The material needs to work as a patch too. Something hard-wearing like suede or corduroy.

Step forward the patches on one of the newer jackets from Lavenham, who I'd say were going through a bit of a purple patch themselves. The Halesworth Elbow Patches quilted jacket, made in England, has cord elbow patches and collar, and a shooting patch on the right shoulder (for right-handed shooters). Patch perfect. They're available in blue and green.

Do You Have any Spare Children's Books?

Speaking of Lavenham, they've launched a campaign to collect English children's books to send to areas of Japan that are still suffering from the effects of the earthquake and Tsunami that happened last year.

They're collecting the books up to April, after which they'll be sending them in the happy bags (below) they've made for the job.

Should you have any children's books to donate, you can send them to this address:

Attention: Marketing Department
Lavenham Leisure
24 - 25 Churchfield Road
Sudbury
Suffolk
CO10 2YA

Sir Ranulph Twisleton-Wykeham-Fiennes - Explorer, Dunhill Suit Wearer and Writer

2012-01-27T01:06:00.000Z

Sir Ranulph Fiennes Can No Longer Play Recorder

A nice little interview with Sir Ranulph Fiennes from Alfred Dunhill. Fodder for The Tweed Pig, with the combination of Dunhill's history and Fienne's incredible CV of derring-do.

Dunhill, established in London in the late-Victorian era, and famed for its motoring and smoking accessories, is now owned by luxuries conglomerate Richemont. The modern Dunhill brand is associated with a broad range of men's clothes and products.

The interview is part of Dunhill's Voice campaign, which is meant to embody masculine achievement. I won't try and describe any further, as I don't want to lurch into advertising-industry twaddle. Sir Ranulph proffers stoical nuggets of wisdom. Fight against wimpish thoughts and err on the side of pessimism, says he.

Ranulph Goes to Hollywood - The Feather Men

Sir Ranulph has documented real-life adventure and adventurers in a number of books, including his own experiences in the excellent biography Mad, Bad and Dangerous to Know.

Action and adventure are the main themes in his fiction too. The Feather Men was published in 1991 and is the story of four SAS soldiers targeted by a hit squad. Fiennes was a member of the SAS, so could draw on his real life experiences.

The Feather Men was made into the action film Killer Elite in 2011, starring tough-chaps Jason Statham, Clive Owen and Robert de Niro.

I sense you're not a massive fan of action films, Bond and Bourne excepted. You prefer something more like the original Brideshead series with Jeremy Irons perhaps? Obviously we'll be covering that at some stage, but Killer Elite is an enjoyable romp. Spot the interesting use of a loaf.

How to play 'old Etonian': Amusing to see Fiennes portrayed in the film as a rather effete character, which I suppose is some kind of shorthand for old Etonian, but not quite an accurate vision of Fiennes.

Clothing Credits: Here we see a beige and blue Baracuta Harrington jacket put through its paces in the film by Jason's hit man character.

Transported to London - The Moquette Bag

2012-01-26T07:18:00.000Z

All Aboard - London Transport Museum Introduce a Range of Products Using the Distinctive Moquette

You know the practical covering they use on the buses and underground trains? The material is called moquette and is designed to be extremely hard-wearing because of the pounding it is going to take from Londoners' bottoms. It is redolent of a London of gents in bowler hats sitting patiently on the tube behind their newspapers on their way to the city. I can hear the whirr of the tube train now as it moves on from Sloane Square.

London Transport Museum has taken the fabric and created a holdall bag (above) using the old moquette designs for the Green Line and the old RT buses. Leather trims can be in black or brown. Much like a carpet bag from Victorian times, which also used to double as rugs for sleeping on journeys.

The Green Line moquette shown on the bag was first introduced in the 1950s and used to furnish the commuter coaches for the Home Counties throughout in the 50s and 60s. The pattern has dark green and blue stripes, with pink stripes cutting across. The moquette is woven in the UK by one of the original moquette suppliers. Mostly woven from wool but with a dash of polyester to give it added strength.

Cad and the Dandy - Suit Buying Course - Lesson 1

2012-01-24T09:57:00.000Z

Enrol for The Tweed Pig Technical Certificate in Suit Buying Here

It's the new year and lots of people are considering a little self-improvement. If you keep putting off studying for that degree in Classics at Cambridge and the keep-fit DVD you bought remains in its wrapping, you might consider The Tweed Pig Certificate in Suit Buying. The Tweed Pig is offering this course for free, in conjunction with our friends at Cad and Dandy. When we say in conjunction, we mean that Cad and Dandy used their considerable expertise to put the learning materials together.

The course will be delivered in lessons over the next couple of weeks (lesson 1 below). No student fees, no living in shared accommodation with scruffbags, flip-flop wearers and teabag hoarders. At the end of the course, you will have acquired all the skills you need for commissioning your perfect suit. Something that will stay with you forever. We bring these lessons as a public service so that less people end up with a poor quality and ill-fitting suit that stays in the wardrobe unworn. Have a pencil and parer handy to take notes and good luck.

About our Instructors
London tailors Cad and the Dandy, operating out of the City, Savile Row and Canary Wharf, believe that high-quality suits should be accessible to all. They offer three grades of tailored suit: machine stitched, half hand-stitched and fully hand-stitched. Once they've captured your shape in a pattern created by hand you can choose from their vast library of fabrics and linings.

Lesson 1 - The Rules of Fitting by Cad and the Dandy

Length of the jacket. The fad of late seems to be shorter jackets - not something a tailor likes to see, but the standard rule is that the jacket should be long enough to cover your backside, normally where the thumb knuckle is when standing with your arms by your side.
Fit of the Collar. All too often jackets either sit away from the neck or there is a ridge that forms behind the neck. You should also care how the suit looks from behind not just the front.
Fit across the back. The jacket should sit cleanly across the back. There should be minimal creases, any that form horizontally are normally an indication the jacket is too tight.
Sleeve length. It is important to show ½ to ¾ of an inch of shirt cuff.
Tailoring of lapels. Pay special attention to lapels and try and avoid skinny ones! On a jacket that is well made lapels should roll softly to the point where the jacket buttons. This is all part of the handwork that goes into a bespoke suit.
Waistline fit. The amount of 'shape' at the waist derives not just from the fit but the cut. As a tailoring house Cad and the Dandy cut a strong waist but never a tight jacket.
Trouser fit. Belts with suits should be avoided, a trouser and the wearer look cleaner and smarter without. They should fit smoothly across the seat by sitting correctly on the wearers waist, not like a low slung jean.
Trouser length. Trouser length is a personal one but ideally Cad and the Dandy like to see a slight break at the top of the shoe front and the trouser to hang straight at the back.

Lesson 2 coming soon. Class dismissed.

Lear Browne and Dunsford - Conservative Classics

2012-01-23T10:11:00.000Z

Background on Lear Brown and Dunsford (1895)

Based in Exeter, England, textile merchant Lear Browne and Dunsford is the parent company that encompasses the esteemed cloth making names of Harrison's of Edinburgh, H. Lesser and Porter and Harding. Having spoken of the quality of Porter and Harding's in our panegyric to corduroy, we wanted to learn more about Lear Browne and Dunsford and how they have prospered since 1895.

James Dunsford - Current Trends in Suiting Cloths

Mark and James Dunsford are the 4th generation of the Dunsford family to be running the business. Thanks to James for taking the time to speak with us.

We asked James how the company has stayed robust. "Three main factors. Family Shareholding only. Reinvestment in the business every year. Sticking to our guns when it comes to buying cloth. We basically only stock British material."

The UK is Lear Browne and Dunsford's largest market. Outside the UK it's the U.S.A., Japan, and Italy. British products are generally popular in the States, what with the historic and linguistic ties, but Italy and Japan are always mentioned when we ask about this sort of thing. The Italians and the Japanese are knowledgeable, seek out quality and demand the best - in a British sense that might mean a Brooks saddle for their bike or some real stilton. Quality will out in those markets.

Dunsford's best selling fabrics are Harrisons Super 100s Premier Cru (sample below) and H. Lesser 11oz suiting.

James says the company is looking to develop the business in China, India and Korea. A Made In the UK label will be eagerly sought-out in these new markets.

Tip - Check You Are Buying 2-fold

All Lear Browne and Dunsford's suiting cloths are manufactured 2-fold, meaning two threads are twisted together both warp and left to give better strength. James advises, "Today many cloths are produced single weft, which will make the cloth softer to handle but weaker in the long term. So your readers should check if single weft is used or not!"

Conservative Classics and the Changing Perception of Tweed

Lear Browne and Dunsford have a large archive of cloths from their subsidiaries and are aware of trends in taste, but, as James says, their strength lies in "selling conservative classics".

The company has made it a goal to preserve their heritage, but they have also adapted to change and embraced it. For example, James has noticed the change in perception to tweed. "Tweed at the moment is different, and we have a much stronger look than before with the likes of Glenroyal (top). We have seen the most notable change in end-user. The stereotypical farmer wearing tweed has long, long gone."

Tweedy's thought: As we've said on a few occasions, when mass culture means piercings, flip-flops, and throwaway fast fashion, hunting out quality and dressing smartly in conservative classics never felt more rebellious.

Sherlock Holmes Mystery Explained

2012-01-19T10:32:00.000Z

The Tea Ritual

It's probably been bugging you. You watched the final episode of the new adaptation of Sherlock Holmes, starring Tweed Towers favourite Benedict Cumberbatch as Holmes, Martin Freeman as Watson, and with a strange pantomime villain-like performance by Andrew Scott as Moriarty, and you just could not put the pieces together. "Whodunit?", you kept repeating to yourself, perplexed.

Well today The Tweed Pig can reveal all. The chinaware Holmes and Moriarty enjoyed afternoon tea with is from a range called Home Sweet Home created by designer Ali Miller. We featured the china when we spoke of our dear friends Rosy Lee London, the tea merchants, sometime ago. Elementary. Now you can re-enact that famous scene in the comfort of your own home.

Did Holmes offer Moriarty biscuits or cake? Maybe that's why they don't get on.

Tweed Pig Pin-Up - Frank Hamish Lloyd-Platt

2012-01-17T10:55:00.000Z

Frank Hamish Lloyd-Platt - Founder and Owner - The Hamish

This is the first in an occasional series called The Tweed Pig Pin-up. I know, we've started a few of these occasional series and they've soon fizzled out, but we're hoping this one has legs. With The Tweed Pig Pin-up, we're going to bring a photo of someone or something that captures our attention at Tweed Towers, and a little story of what you can see in the photo. Nothing racy, it'll be more cardigans than corsets.

First up is Frank Hamish Lloyd-Platt. Frank is founder and owner of The Hamish, a web site design and development company. (In fact, it's through thinking of an excuse to post this photo that the series was invented. The Tweed Pig is a bit of a moveable feast, but it fits well on these pages, don't you think?)

About the Photo

Frank tells us about the photo.

I found the jumper on Cheshire street, off Brick Lane east London, and I liked the colour of it straight away. I am also wearing a wooden bow-tie and a shirt I had made in India from embroidered towel fabric. I left it in the dry cleaners a couple of months back, so someone might have a jazzy Christmas present this year!

The photo is taken by my cousin Rory at a Christmas party at my house a few years ago. The 'lifetimes supply' of mustard was a present from my mum! The photograph got such a good response I use it on my business cards, and I have cheekily submitted it to Colman's to use on their next advertising campaign. No response yet though.

Carréducker - Handmade English Shoes - Q & A with Deborah Carré & James Ducker

2012-01-16T09:20:00.000Z

The Tea and Cake is Unleashed

Following the recent post on the art and sole of carréducker, we bring more insights about what sets a bespoke shoe apart from its biscuit-cutter alternative. Young Mrs Tweed shared a pot of Assam golden tips tea and lemon chifon cake with Deborah Carré and James Ducker of carréducker, the bespoke shoemakers, to ask a couple of questions and unravel the mystery.

Q & A with Deborah Carré & James Ducker - Founders and Makers at carréducker

The sharpened pencil was poised and the questioning began. Many thanks to Carré & Ducker for providing their time and such interesting responses.

Could you tell me about the process of having a pair of bespoke shoes made at Carréducker?
Typically, we see the customers at our workshop at Gieves and Hawkes, Number 1 Savile Row. We make the shoes here behind a glass screen on the shop floor. At the first meeting, we measure the feet; do a design consultation where we ask about the customer's wardrobe and what the shoes are going to be worn with. We also choose leathers and design details together. We then have the lasts made by our last maker in Northampton.

Next we make a pattern and a pair of uppers and brace them onto the lasts so that the customer can try on the shoes. We always do one fitting, often two and sometimes more. It is a bespoke process and everyone's feet are different. Once the fit is perfect, we make the shoes by hand using only hand held tools and no machines.

We follow up with a call or email one month after the client has taken delivery to check all is well. Sometimes we have to make further adjustments as it is only with wear over a period of time that the customer can get a feel for the true fit of the shoe.

How long does it take to complete the shoe-making process?
It takes between 6 and 8 months to deliver the shoes, depending on how available the customer is for fittings. 5 to 6 months for subsequent pairs.

Could you explain a little more about the craftsmanship behind your shoes, the skills required, and the various stages in making the product?
Every process is done by hand, from the last making to finishing the shoes.

During the making, we prepare an insole with a paring knife; last the shoes by hand (stretch the uppers onto the lasts); hand welt the shoes (attach the upper to the insole and insert a strip of leather between them); hand stitch a sole to the welt; build the heels by hand using glue and nails; and finish the shoes by hand using glass, sandpaper, ink and wax.

What are your most popular styles?
Difficult to say. We design each shoe for each customer, so the styles always vary. Of the samples in store, the most popular ones are the Half-cut and the Saddle Boot.

What are your biggest markets?
Our markets are about 25% UK, 33% USA and the rest from the rest of the world, especially the Far East.

How does the experience and enjoyment of wearing a pair of bespoke shoes compare to wearing a good pair of quality shoes in the right size?
Firstly, when we see a client to take their measurements we also take a foam impression of their feet. This ensures that shoes made on their lasts give their feet the utmost support where they need it. So the experience of bespoke shoes is very different.

Secondly, the leathers we use are of the highest quality, and once you have broken the shoes in, the leather moulds to your foot shape.

Thirdly, it's that frisson of knowing that you are wearing shoes commissioned by and made for you alone - a subtle, secret pleasure.

A client recently said when putting his bespoke shoes on for the first time, "I've been to the Taj Mahal, walked the Great Wall of China, but this is something else." We love that.

What are the characteristics of the leather you use in your shoes? Which are the best leathers?
We use top quality box calf leather for the uppers, from Poland, Italy and France - and the quality is such that the uppers should last 15 to 20 years if you nourish and polish regularly. We also use exotics such as alligator, lizard, ostrich and snake.

What's the profile of your customer?
Very varied, from billionaires who order a pair of the same shoes for each of their houses around the world, so that they don't have to travel with luggage, to those who have a passion for the craft and save up to get their one pair of bespoke shoes. In between, we see a lot of international businessmen who pass through London on a regular basis. We also have a number of gents who have problematic feet or who find it hard to buy ready to wear shoes.

Tweedy's thought: What you get from a pair of bespoke shoes takes footwear to another level. It's fantastic that the skills and craftsmanship that go behind a pair of handmade carréducker shoes is appreciated around the globe. A fantastic advert for British craftsmanship.

R. S. Thomas - Misery Guts Welsh Poet and His Duffle Coats

2012-01-13T17:00:00.001Z

R. S. Thomas - One of the Great Welsh 'Thomas Poets'

The Tweed Pig sometimes accuses itself of being too superficial. We obsess about things like seams on socks. Does it really matter? But maybe we're being too hard on ourselves. After all, isn't God (or the devil) in the detail?

Perhaps to over-compensate, we bring you some introspective poetry today. It's good to do a little navel-gazing at this time of year. R. S. Thomas is considered one of the great Welsh poets. He was an Anglican priest with deep spiritual convictions. These convictions were ostensibly to reject the greed and superficiality of consumerism and defend the community of Wales from such malign influence. He was extreme in these convictions, railing against household appliances and gadgets as vacuous diversions that led people from their innate spiritual needs. His sermons and poetry reflected this outlook. And he had the courage of his convictions, living in splendid isolation in a remote part of Wales where modernity barely got a look in, and he could channel his thoughts into beautiful and sensitive poetry.

His spiky personality and introspection reminds me a little of Wainright, actually.

The Man Who Went into the West: The Life of R. S. Thomas

If you wish to know more of R. S. Thomas the man, there is no better place to start than the biography by Byron Rogers, The Man Who Went into the West: The Life of R. S. Thomas. A fair and meticulous biography of a complex and often paradoxical figure out on Aurum Press.

The Duffle Coated Poet

He probably wouldn't have appreciated my pointing this out, but R. S. Thomas wore a mean duffle coat. And you can achieve the shy yet angry British poet look with a Gloverall.

This excerpt from a programme broadcast on British TV in 1995 features R. S. Thomas, who recites some of his wonderful poetry and displays, in cut-glass English accent, a surprising sense of humour. Lots of duffle coat action too.

Art and Sole - Carréducker

2012-01-12T00:30:00.000Z

Find Bespoke Shoemaker Carréducker at the Gentleman's Emporium at No. 1 Savile Row

James Ducker and Deborah Carré are the full names behind the shoemaker carréducker. Both served four years of apprenticeship to a master shoemaker at John Lobb. Deborah was apprenticed as a scholar of the highly commendable Queen Elizabeth Scholarship Trust. In 2004, they founded carréducker.

They follow the traditions of handsewn English shoemaking and very much see themselves as the guardians of the trade. As James says, "We are passionate about the traditions of shoemaking, and in this respect we run intensive shoemaking courses three times a year in London and New York - and we also write a weekly blog about the craft. It is a specialist blog and mainly consists of short tutorials on specific aspects of shoemaking." That passion is being recognised, Deborah was winner of the Leather Category of the Balwennie Master of Craft awards.

Allied to this passion for traditional craftsmanship, carréducker also adds a contemporary design ethos to their shoes. Styles range from the classics of the English wardrobe (The Mayfair Collection) to more contemporary models which concentrate on colour, texture, proportion, a mix of materials, and idiosyncratic design details. They design every pair for each client on the last, so how traditional or contemporary you go is entirely up to you.

Bespoke Shoes Versus Ready-to-Wear

At carréducker a foam impression is taken of the customer's feet at the measuring stage. This means that the shape of the sole of the last reflects the shape of the feet and how weight is distributed. In this way, the shoes can give the feet all the support they need. James believes that this is the Damascene moment for a person new to bespoke shoes, "Once a customer has had a well-fitting pair of bespoke it is hard for them to go back to ready-to-wear where that level of fit cannot be achieved."

"Our bespoke shoes are handsewn so they can be repaired time-and-time again over the years. They are a sustainable choice because of this durability and the traditional way in which they are made."

James describes the follow-up process after the shoes have been made. "Once we have made the shoes and delivered them, we follow up with the client one month later to check that all is well. It is only by breaking in and then wearing the shoes for a while that the customer gets a real feel for the fit. Sometimes at this stage we need to make further slight adjustments to perfect the fit for the customer."

Interested? I bet your feet are. Stay tuned for a Q & A session with carréducker coming very soon.

The Return of the Donkey Jacket

2012-01-10T10:40:00.000Z

Donkey Jacket - British Workwear Classic

How's this for a turn up for the books. We see that the donkey jacket has been making something of a return. By my reckoning this once staple piece of British workwear hasn't been in much evidence since the early 80s when it was adopted by skinheads - part of their puritanically anti-fashion and clean-cut aesthetic - as an alternative to a Crombie. Dexys Midnight Runners (above) wore them a lot during Searching for the Young Soul Rebels period. The history of the donkey jacket as a garment for labourers goes back to the Victorian era. In the service industry era it has risen again.

The Watchgate - Bringing Together George Keys and British Millerain

Instead of the traditional leather shoulder panels, the Watchgate woollen donkey jacket from Aubin & Wills. It is made in the UK by George Keys (1870), and uses waxed cotton from the British Millerain Company. I can't find any info on George Keys. George, if you read this, please get in touch.

If you're attracted to British utilitarian clothing, you don't need to look like you're clocking-on for a shift in a mine. A donkey jacket with maybe a tattersal shirt underneath, a pair of mustard-coloured moleskin trousers and some well-worn oxblood brogues should do it.

A Lot of Flannel from Alex James

2012-01-08T23:35:00.000Z

Familiar Names in Aubin & Wills

I found myself in London this week. In a spare couple of hours, I sprinted round the usual haunts. I popped into the flagship shop of Aubin & Wills in Shoreditch. They seem to be doing many more interesting British collaborations than I remember of yore. Quite a few Made in Britain labels, and we can't ignore that.

Coats and accessories collaborations throw up the right names: Fox Brothers, Gloverall, The English Belt Company and Brady Bags. Young Mrs Tweed is currently wearing-in a pair of English-made brogue boots of theirs, which she's very pleased with. Fully leather-lined. Goodyear welt. We've been trying to track down the manufacturer. We're told it's Grenson.

Aubin & Wills, the sister company of Jack Wills, sets out to present "modern British design, inspired by the past, living in the present." Old Tweedy lives in the past, but is inspired by the present.

Alex James - Rock Star Gentleman of the Great British Countryside

Aubin & Wills have interesting collaborations with Brits themselves too. We covered Graham Coxon and his passion for Cordings. Well, here's another Blur person doing something that interests us. Alex James has collaborated with Aubin & Wills to create the three-piece Sandbanks suit in Fox Brothers flannel (above).

You may have an opinion on the short cut of the jacket, and the fact that it's only available in approximate sizes (small, medium, large et cetera), but the use of Fox Brothers flannel is a matchless choice.

Dirk Bogarde - Lyrics for Lovers

2012-01-06T07:30:00.000Z

Dirk Bogarde - Actor, Writer, Talk-Singer

Dirk Bogarde, the British actor, born Derek Jules Gaspard Ulric Niven van den Bogaerde, had quite a career. His acting day-job took him from matinee idol, playing film roles such as Dr. Simon Sparrow in the enjoyable Doctor series of films, to the art-house boundary-pushing of his later films, particularly the Italian ones. Visconti's Death In Venice and Cavani's Night Porter are career high-water marks.

Dirk also wrote successfully. His novels and memoirs have a light, witty flourish that are far from the wince-inducing literary diversions of many actors.

In spite of the characters he played, or the subject matter on which he wrote, there was always a quiet dignity and elegant demeanour to the man. His natural disposition is also in evidence on the neglected album Lyrics for Lovers.

Dirk Bogarde's - Lyrics for Lovers

Dirk Bogarde's Lyrics for Lovers came out in 1960 on London Records. It's been available on CD for some time.

Dirk delivers the lyrics of standard romantic songs in a confessional spoken-word style. With the warmth of his voice and its intimacy, it's one I like to play in the car a lot. The world seems a little more elegant as it's playing.

Eric Rogers, who composed scores for the Carry On series of films, provides the musical accompaniment with lush yet hushed arrangements.

The track Where or When features the best lighting of a cigarette ever put to record.

Auburn Threaded Beauty - An English Hand Wash Bag

2012-01-04T23:30:00.000Z

An English Hand Wash Bag

We featured An English Hand recently and spoke briefly about the popularity of their Harris Tweed wash bags. Young Mrs Tweed was thrilled (and lucky) to find one in her stocking at Christmas. I wonder who sent it? The colour is just too photogenic to ignore, so we're giving it its own spot using photos taken by a thrilled young Mrs Tweed. Nice photos Mrs T.

The hand-made wash bags come in two sizes, Major (27 x 19.5 x 9cm) and Minor (21 x 14 x 9cm). Young Mrs Tweed's is a Minor in the Orange Heather tweed. Other colours include navy, lovat and grey. The orange is a lovely warm colour and the tweed soft to the touch, very tactile. The bag is lined with cotton. It has the Harris Tweed label sewn on to the base, but you can choose not to have this if you prefer. A neat idea to have the removable pocket for the inevitable airport security checks.

Tweed in New Year's Honours List

2012-01-03T10:30:00.000Z

MBE for Harris Tweed Weaver

It's traditional to groan incredulously at some of the more high-profile celebrity names on the Queen's New Year's Honours List. You might frown and wonder what on earth the award was for and quickly dismiss the whole idea of honours in general. But hold on, the New Year's Honours List is a long list and there is no such question mark over honouring the vast majority of the recipients for their service to the United Kingdom or British Overseas Territories.

One such worthy recipient is Donald John Mackay, a tweed weaver from the Isle of Harris. Donald is to receive an MBE (Member of the Most Excellent Order of the British Empire) for services to the Harris Tweed industry, following 21 years as a weaver. He and his wife trade under the name of Luskentyre Harris Tweed Co and are busy supplying orders to the traditional buyers, such as the tailors on Savile Row, and the not so traditional, like Clarks Originals. Clarks has already brought out that mod staple the desert boot in Harris Tweed with ASOS (below). Not sure if the cloth for that one in particular came from Luskentyre.

Congratulations from The Tweed Pig.

Esquire's Visit to the Isle of Harris

Esquire made a series of videos where Patrick Grant of Norton and Sons visited British cloth manufacturers. He included Donald on his visit to the Isle of Harris. Patrick considers him to be one of the finest Harris Tweed weavers.

The Tweed Pig Pulls a Christmas Hat Over His Eyes

2011-12-25T08:02:00.000Z

Trousers Prepared for Expanding Waistline

The gates at Tweed Towers have clanged shut for the Yuletide break. Old Jack, the night watchman, has been supplied with enough mince pies to get him through the next few days, as the workers trudge home through the snow and ice to warming firesides and crackling log fires.

The Radio Times has been marked. The biggest turkey in the shop prepared. The waist-adjuster buttons ('Daks tops') have been loosened for expansion on the trousers. All set.

We wish you a restful and enjoyable Christmas and a prosperous New Year.

A Cary Grant Christmas Curio - Festive Music

2011-12-23T07:30:00.000Z

Cary Grant's Contribution to Christmas Records

What's your favourite Christmas song? The Pogues' Fairytale of New York? Good choice. 2000 Miles by The Pretenders? Still sounds good. What about Christmas 1979 by Billy Childish? Fair enough, it's not everyone's cup of tea. The same can be said of Cary Grant's Christmas Lullaby from 1967.

Christmas Lullaby is one of those talk-song affairs, and I'm a fan of talk-song records. We'll be covering Dirk Bogarde's soon, and we spoke of Renzo Cesana before now. In Christmas Lullaby, Cary piles on the sentiment, but it has a certain old-fashioned charm. I'm surprised it came out in 1967, with all the counter-cultural happenings going on around it at the time. Daring in its way.

Ringing Bells with Jethro Tull

Let's lift the mood now with Jethro Tull's Solstice Bells. This tends to get an airing on Christmas morning at Tweed Towers to set the mood for the day. It gives us an excuse to look at Ian Anderson's tattersall waistcoat with the holly buttonhole. If you want to replicate that look for Christmas, Brocklehurts sell a Gurteen tattersall waistcoat in wool with horn buttons. You just need to find a bit of holly. Neckerchief or cravat - it's up to you.

Christmas is Cardigan-Shaped - John Smedley

2011-12-22T08:10:00.049Z

A Vision of Cardigans

It was as if I'd had a vision. I suddenly turned to young Mrs Tweed and said, "We must travel north, for I have seen Christmas and it is cardigan-shaped." I had a craving for some new John Smedley cardigans to get through the festive period. We try and fit in a pilgrimage to the Derbyshire factory once a year anyway.

John Smedley's Derbyshire Factory and Mill Shop

The John Smedley factory at Lea Mills, established in 1784, has claims to be the world's longest running factory. It is a bit of a devil to get to, but set in lovely countryside and surrounded by Peak District attractions. Something can always be found in the Mill Shop. The Mill Shop is open on weekends, which is handy for us, as otherwise we'd struggle to visit. But for some reason, we always arrive when they are close to closing. Timing issues. We shared the shop with a Japanese couple who had made a pilgrimage far greater than ours. Maybe the time imposition helped focus the mind. I decided on three cardigans with Bond-like decisiveness just as the nice ladies in the shop started to jangle the keys for closing-time.

One suggestion for John Smedley: a cafe would be nice. We've come a long way and we need a cup of tea.

We Three Cardigans

As Hardy Amies mentioned in An Englishman's Suit, the cardigan is probably the most versatile of the sweater-family, as it looks fine with a tie. (He wasn't keen on v-neck sweaters with ties.) They look okay without a tie to me too.

Here are the three, all in fine-gauge merino wool:

The Christmas Eve

The Christmas Day

The white buttons probably make this a bit of a summery cardigan, but for the sake of this piece let's say they remind us of snowballs.

The Boxing Day

A risqué sleeveless number.

There we are, I'm all set. The cardigans might be battle-weary at the end of the festive season, possibly contending with mince pie and port stains, but they'll live to fight another day. As you know, a cardigan isn't just for Christmas.

Tracklements Christmas Chutney

2011-12-20T09:15:00.000Z

Tracklements Christmas Chutney

I like the story of the Saturday morning sausage and mash parties that were a feature when Tracklements, the artisan mustard and relish makers, started in the 1970s. The parties were arranged for tastings of their first mustard. Since then Tracklements have added many products to their range, with new mustards, pickles, sauces and chutneys, and maybe more mustard-based parties.

For the festive season they offer us Christmas Chutney. With the flavours of apple and cranberries and yuletide spices of nutmeg, cinnamon, and allspice. A good dollop is a nice accompaniment to a Turkey sandwich or a piece of game pie. Or some cheese.

The photo above is an artist's impression of our jar. We opened ours the other day and just kept dipping in. Tasty stuff. But we made the jar less photogenic the more we dipped. We resolved to get another jar, but our local stockist has been wiped out. Lessons need to be learnt here.

Chutney Spoon

I know what you're thinking, "The chutney looks delicious, but I don't have a chutney spoon." Do not panic. The Tweed Pig has located just the spoon. Abbey Horn has a selection of chutney spoons in bone and horn (first below). The spoon has a long handle to reach to the bottom of the chutney jar. You have options perhaps you never thought you'd have with the selection of your chutney spoon. You can select the colour of horn and have the spoon monogrammed. What better for the chutney-lover in your life.

While we're on the subject of dipping spoons into things, they also make a nice selection of caviar spoons and spreaders in horn too if you prefer saltier tastes. As you'll no doubt be aware, metal cutlery will taint the taste of caviar, so horn (or mother of pearl) is recommended. Nice silver-tipped caviar spoon at the bottom there.

If you're feeling particularly horny, more on Abbey in the New Year.

Trumper's Skin Food Protects Against Over-Kissing

2011-12-19T08:10:00.030Z

Protect Your Face from Over-Kissing this Christmas with Trumper's Skin Food

If I know you, your face will no doubt be subject to the onslaught of Christmas kisses over the festive season. Best to get that skin in tip-top condition and ready to receive. What your face needs, in fact, is feeding so that it's protected against any kiss-induced chafing.

We're not saying you need to rub Christmas pudding over your mush, no we're talking specifically about skin food. Coral Skin Food from Geo. F. Trumper has a glycerine base and is fragranced with rose water.

You can use the skin food as an after-shave balm or as a pre-shave to soften bristles, or before and after shaving if you like.

Being glycerine-based, it is non-oily but conditions and protects the skin, making it eminently kissable. Once applied, all you need to do is stand near the mistletoe and wait.

A Cad Dressed like a Dandy - Laura with Clifton Webb

2011-12-16T08:10:00.082Z

Caddish Behaviour in Otto Preminger's Laura

As winter wraps us in her cloak, let's think about indoors entertainment that doesn't involve hurling yourself around the room with a joystick in your hand. How about a nice black-and-white film to watch, with some tips for dressing like a cad? I thought you'd like that. And you can have that sit down you deserve.

Laura is an American film-noir, released in 1944, directed by Otto Preminger. Dana Andrews plays a detective investigating the killing of the eponymous Laura, played by Gene Turney, who seemed to enchant everyone she met. Suspects include her flaky boyfriend Shelby (Vincent Price) and journalist friend Waldo (Clifton Webb). Who did it? You think you have an idea, then comes a big twist and your certainties are confounded.

Yes, yes, Gene Turney is beautiful, one of the most beautiful actresses of Hollywood's golden era. Dana Andrews is dependable as ever, but this is Clifton Webb's film. His character is waspish, snobbish, effete, arrogant and witty. A bit of a cad, actually, and a joy to watch. And his wardrobe marks him out as a bit of a dandy too.

A Cad's Wardrobe

What might we find in a cad's wardrobe? Here are a couple of pointers from the film.

Cane for pointing dismissively at underlings.

Smoking jacket for seduction.

Cad and the Dandy Teaser

Speaking of cads and dandies, we'll be bringing something special from Cad and the Dandy soon. As we're on a bit of a wind-down for Christmas - the mince pies are out already - it will most likely be a New Year treat. Stay tuned.

Glove Story - Dents in the Car

2011-12-15T07:20:00.002Z

Dents Increases theirs Manufacturing Base

Dents, the ancient glove and accessories manufacturer, was established by John Dent in 1777. It has been based in Warminster, Wiltshire, England for more than 200 years, where the gloves in their heritage collection are made. Dents heritage gloves are hand cut, and with the finest gloving leather supplied by our friends at Pittards.

Good news that they are expanding production in the town with the opening of a new purpose-built factory. The Princess Royal, Princess Anne, officially opened Dents' new Warminster factory, which replaces their 1937 premises. After opening the factory and being given a tour, Princess Anne was presented with a pair of Dents gloves. The company has a long Royal connection, having supplied the gloves for the coronation of King George VI in 1937 and the Queen's coronation in 1953.

Dents in the Car

Might I present my own pair of Dents gloves? The Crochet Back Driving Glove. Not required for any coronation, as far as I'm aware. King Tweedy?

I'm a fan of the super-classic crochet-back, or string-back, driving glove. Every car should have a pair. The crochet-back gives the flexibility required at the wheel, the leather palms the grip. Comfortable.

They look nice with a covert coat too, as you browse a flea-market, say, looking for old Blue Note albums. More on Blue Note covers in a future post.

Hand in Perfect Glove

If you're thinking of pushing the (glove) boat out, might I also draw your attention to the Handsewn Cashmere Lined Peccary Glove. The King amongst Dents' men's range, it has peccary outer and Scottish cashmere lining. Beautiful glove. They come in brown and black, but the yellowy cork version (below) is rather fetching.

Be careful with these. They are not the sort of gloves you want to leave on a bus seat.

Dents Glove Museum

After the move to the new premises, Dents' factory shop and glove museum are open for visits Monday to Saturday. Amongst the exhibits are the Queen's coronation gloves, a chicken skin glove and even Nelson's blood-stained glove (below).

You can also pick up your own pair of gloves and take a bit of living history home. You'll need to add your own blood-stains.

Cup of Rosy Lee

2011-12-13T08:10:00.025Z

Rosy Lee

We haven't done a post on tea for a while. That doesn't mean that the buckets of chain store coffee served on the high street have won. No one takes the tea out of The Tweed Pig. No, sir.

To reinforce the fact, let us introduce you to our latest tea champions - Rosy Lee Tea London. Note to our foreign chums: Rosy Lee is cockney rhyming-slang for tea.

About Rosy Lee

Young Mrs Tweed shared a pot of tea and a slice of Victoria sponge with founder Lorraine Rogers to find out more. Between sips, Lorraine explained how the company started:

"The idea came about back in 2008 whilst my husband was studying the knowledge [rigorous training course for London taxicab drivers]. I decided to start a tea business aimed at the cultural tourist. We were lying in bed one evening thinking of a name when my husband just came out with, 'it's got to be Rosy Lee!' Could you get any more British?

So the next day we looked the name up to see if anyone else had it. There were a few variations , so I applied for the trademark and it turned out that Tetley [big tea company, now owned by Tata of India] had it, but it was about to expire! I contacted them explaining that I was a mum of four looking to start up my own business, that there was a charity angle, I will be donating a percentage of profits to the Pearly Society.

Tetley said yes, you can have it! So after many, many cups of tea, I found the great tasting Assam/Kenyan blend from a Tea House here in london. The inspiration for the tin design came from the 'Keep Calm and Carry on Poster' of the 1940's. I also wanted to feature the Pearly Kings, but have a contemporary feel."

[Good for Tetley, thought Young Mrs Tweed, as she stabbed another piece of Victoria sponge with her bone-handled dessert fork.]

Where to Drink it

Rosy Lee Tea supply their tea to some interesting places, such as the Museum of London, The Imperial War Museum, HMS Belfast, the Whitechapel Art Gallery Cafe, Albion Cafe and The Clerkenwell Kitchens. Look out for the distinctive red label if you're visiting the UK.

What to Drink it From

Rosy Lee Tea has collaborated with ceramic designer Ali Miller to create the rather charming tea set you see below. What a lovely little teacup, with that British Isles motif. As we never tire of saying here at The Tweed Pig, tea always tastes better in a china tea cup and saucer. And, of course, you can balance a couple of biscuits on the saucer. Living the dream.

S.E.H Kelly - Putting British Mills to Work

2011-12-12T07:09:00.000Z

S.E.H Kelly Men's Clothes

If The Tweed Pig does nothing else, and it probably doesn't, it serves to highlight that there are many British companies that still make things in the UK. You've just got to know where to look. If we want to support these companies, we need to get used to looking more carefully at labels.

In spite of the impossible odds of global price competition, more surprising, and heart-warmingly so, is the fact that it's not just the heritage brands that have been around since Waterloo that manufacture in the UK. An inspiring and exciting aspect of the news that reaches us at Tweed Towers is of the enthusiastic new companies that are starting for the very reason that they want to use and celebrate the raw materials and craftsmanship of the British Isles - and see a ready market for products with the strong selling point of a UK provenance. This is the new British heritage.

S.E.H Kelly was founded as a menswear brand in 2009. They started with five garments: two trousers, two shirts, and an overshirt. Over time they have added more. They make clothes to last in terms of materials and aesthetics. This isn't fast fashion, and as if to emphasise that point they do not release seasonal lines in the latest colour or cut that has fashion critics palpitating for a week. They release when they have developed a garment that's ready for release. As simple as that.

The Background

The founders, Sara Kelly and Paul Vincent, share an affection for British fabrics and the history behind the working mills. Sara, who designs the garments, has a background in Savile Row.

Look Out Japan - 新しい英国の遺産

S.E.H Kelly sell only through their website at the moment - the collection is small and they want to focus on getting the garments just right before growing. The Tweed Pig was intrigued to know whether the company has a presence in Japan. We think their stuff would go down a bloody treat. Sizing would need to be considered, mind.

Paul explains: "We don't yet have a presence in Japan, although given the menswear market out there, it'd be one we'd look to when we expand. Our plan is to steadily expand the collection -- to focus on the garments and to continue to improve on quality. We are confident that as long as we look after the garments, the rest will to some extent look after itself."

Well said.

(Not sure the Japanese is right. Do correct me if I've inadvertently blasphemed or insulted a nation.)

Brown Hopsack Tweed Jacket

To emphasise the cottage-industry nature of S.E.H Kelly, the flecked brown Hopsack Tweed jacket at the top had an initial production run of 6. And how's this for provenance:

Hopsack tweed from a mill in Lancashire.
Horn buttons sourced from a button manufacturer in the Midlands.
Made and finished in London

A nice hardy fabric hopsack. A friend of mine practically lives in his hopsack blazer. It can take the rough-and-tumble.

Grey Birdseye Wool-Cashmere Blazer

Look too, at the unstructured birdseye blazer below, which has a production run of 5.
It is made from a wool-cashmere cloth from a cashmere mill in West Yorkshire. The fabric has gone through a softening process at the mill. If you're tempted, best be quick. As I said, it has a production run of 5.

Music to Button a Cardigan By: I'll Love You Forever Today

2011-12-09T06:14:00.000Z

Cliff Richard - The Mod Years

Tied-in with the corduroy theme this week at The Tweed Pig, we bring a young Cliff Richard in the latest of our Music to Button a Cardigan By series.

Certainly, Cliff qualifies for being a British classic, with a record-breaking six decades of music making and countless number one hits. That's his first qualification for inclusion here. The second is this song, I'll Love You Forever Today, from the soundtrack to the film Two a Penny. Cliff also starred in the film, and you can see him below in a clip from the film singing the song as a mod serenading a young girl on a double-decker bus. As always, nice to see some vintage London scenes.

I think it's fair to say the tune is a bit of a hidden gem. I have to say that it goes on many a playlist here at Tweed Towers. Could it be Cliff's best work?

Actually, we may do another Cliff-related feature some time. I've always been a fan of the film Expresso Bongo. Cliff, if you're reading this, any Expresso Bongo anecdotes you'd like to pass on? Maybe tips on brewing espresso or playing bongo?

Made by An English Hand

2011-12-08T08:10:00.017Z

An English Hand - Honesty in British Craftsmanship

An English Hand, the accessories and clothing company started only two years ago as a reaction against the global trend of brand first, product second.

Co-founder Jonathan Lloyd-Platt explains the story...

"We had been involved in running several well-known brands and been deeply involved in the global sourcing model. It's pretty much universal now in luxury fashion, certainly in the UK. Italy and France have their exceptions of course, but we were jaded by the rather cynical profit-driven model of manufacturing off-shore (the Far East, Eastern Europe, Turkey etc), importing the almost finished product, sewing a few buttons on and calling it 'Made in Italy' or wherever. Profitable, yes, but not really honest. And more to the point, reducing, or eliminating the skills and the manufacturing capability here."

In the Beginning

From a house deep in the Suffolk countryside An English Hand developed the idea of building an online business that would work with British designers, makers, jewellers, leather workers and anyone else who was good at what they did. They started with men's accessories, presented online to an international audience.

Ties First

The first items available from An English Hand were the ties woven in Suffolk mills from the best silk Jacquard fabric available.

The ties are hand-cut and sewn in the few remaining workshops capable of this labour intensive process. The tie below was designed with Georgina von Etzdorf, and references her Dragons design inside, which is also reflected in the colours of the spot.

British Design and Manufacturing - Slowly Does It

Designs from An English Hand make their way to their own workshops or to the workshops of other British craftsmen with whom they have built a relationship. The design brief is to be contemporary but un-faddish, and to keep the manufacturing completely in the British Isles.

Nothing is rushed, time is allowed to get things right.

Tweed Goes Viral

This season An English Hand's unstructured Harris Tweed jackets have sold out, and the wash bags in the same fabric are their most popular line in the run up to Christmas. It seems that people can't get enough of tweed nowadays.

Stockists

London
Ally Capellino
9 Calvert Avenue, London E2 7JP
and
312 Portobello Road, London W10 5RU

Barcelona
Jofre
Passeig de Gracia 104
Barcelona
Spain

Tokyo
Edifice
6-23-3 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku
Tokyo
Japan

United Arrows
1F, 2F 3-25-5 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku
Tokyo
Japan

Hitman & Co
1F 2-2-3 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku,
Tokyo
Japan

The Manchester Trouser - Corduroy's World Domination

2011-12-06T08:10:00.033Z

Hands off Our Corduroy

We're here to explode a well-worn myth today, chums. Corduroy is a British cloth, not French. Its name does not derive from a French expression for cord of kings. The French have nothing to do with this practical and hard-wearing cloth, but they keep quiet about this fact. They have denim, so they can't complain. Hands off our corduroy.

Corduroy has been with us since the 18th century. Typically made from twisted cotton fibres, or a blend that might include cashmere or silk, the weaving process produces a distinct series of parallel ridges. The ridges can be narrow (needle cord) or super thick (elephant cord - at least that's what I've always know it as). But I don't need to go into detail describing corduroy, as you will know about it and probably own something in the fabric. Because corduroy went from Britain to conquer the world and dress the great and the good, the young and the old, the et cetera and the so on.

Manchester Trousers

I tend to own only cord trousers and veer towards the heavier elephant-end of cord. Jackets can be a bit stiff in the fabric, but I'm not averse. A young Cliff Richard, looking every inch the mod swinger, pulls off his seriously heavy cord jacket above.

My German and Swedish friends refer to my cord trousers as Manchester trousers, possibly because that's where corduroy was traditionally made. Not now, I'll wager. That term could be a northern Europe thing. In Spain they call corduroy "pana".

Orange and yellow examples below from my cord trouser collection. They haven't sagged and gone shapeless like some cord trousers can. The yellow ones look winningly tatty around the pockets.

Good Shops for Corduroys

Some good corduroy trouser action to be had in:

Cordings
Pakeman Catto & Carter
Brocklehursts of Bakewell - you can also enjoy a Bakewell pudding while you're in town, and spend an afternoon visiting nearby and glorious Chatsworth House.

If You Are Going for Tailoring

If you are looking for a corduroy suit, Porter and Harding, now owned by Lear Brown and Dunsford, produce English corduroys in lovely colours from a hefty 25oz to 15oz.

Is this the End for the Corduroy Club?

Over in Anglo-America, where they say that one-in-five pairs of trousers bought is in corduroy, could this year's meeting of the Corduroy Appreciation Club be the final one? There was talk, maybe unfounded?

Ralph Lauren Tweed Run Too Much?

2011-12-05T08:10:00.002Z

Ralph Lauren-sponsored Tweed Run Makes second Outing in London this Year

We've watched the transition of the Tweed Run in London from the bumbling and well-meaning amateur event that was organised through a forum in 2009 to the much slicker corporate event of the second Tweed Run of 2011, which was sponsored by Ralph Lauren.

A few questions are raised. Should there be more than one run a year in London? Will too many dilute the attraction, like two Ascots or Wimbledons perhaps? And as bumbling and well-meaning amateurs ourselves, what charmed us about The Tweed Run was it's seemingly bumbling and well-meaning amateurishness. Does the sponsorship by Ralph Lauren and the way the event is now treated like a business change that? Or was that always the intention?

However, I think the most important question to ask is would we miss it if it was gone? And the answer is, of course, yes. Its charm and eccentric Englishness has spawned many imitations around the world. The ethos being espoused is one of gentility, politeness and the joy of taking part in a communal activity with nothing to gain. If only other events made these values priorities. We don't want just angry gatherings where badly dressed people shout and break things, do we?

And then there's the clothing. Who would argue against more tweed and sporting check on the streets? So if it takes a bit of sponsorship and business planning for it to continue, so be it. The Tweed Run is still the original and best. An long may it continue. No more than two a year though, eh?

Maybe The Tweed Pig should think about being a bit more business-like...?

Basket Case - Fortnum and Mason Hampers

2011-12-02T06:49:00.000Z

All Hampers Great and Small

Do you like a big one that you can enjoy with friends? Or do you prefer a smaller one that you can squirrel away till the 25th and devour on your own? Of course, with Christmas around the corner, we're talking about festive food hampers, in particular the ones with F & M printed on the side.

Fortnum & Mason sells a wide selection of hampers. They tell us that new hampers are released each year and the approach of their buyers is to offer fresh and inspiring contents, but retain the traditional elements people expect in a carefully edited selection of preserved food and drinks.

A Hamper - Perfect Christmas Gift?

The great thing about giving a hamper of food and drink as a gift is that it doesn't outstay its welcome. Unlike giving a vase, say, you don't have to worry about a hamper fitting in with the recipient's overblown aesthetic sensibilities. Once consumed, the only trace is a rather attractive basket. Indeed, Fortnum's has experienced a growing interest in giving hampers as gifts over more permanent items.

And with the Classic Christmas hamper above you can also start thinking about the Queen's Diamond Jubilee in the new year. Fortnum's has created the Jubilee Truffles and Jubilee Tea, which are included, to mark the celebrations next year. You can skip from one celebration to the next. Chain-celebrating.

The Ready-to-Eat Revolution - A Scotch Egg is Born

Fortnum's has supplied food that is ready-to-eat and ready-to-dispatch for almost 300 years. In the 18th century, they supplied hampers for the hungry gentry embarking on long coach journeys from London.

In the 18th and 19th century the store’s location provided the perfect site for travellers to collect their hamper for journeys to the South and West of England. Customers could order a boned stuffed roasted chicken, cheeses, beer, a game pie, butter wrapped in lettuce leaves and a fruit cake to take with them. The hampers were supplied with disposable cutlery made of bamboo, pie dishes and bottles needed to be returned.

Innovations came out of this necessity to supply easily transportable food and drink. Fortnum's became pioneers in the development of preserved and pre-cooked foods - they reputedly invented the scotch egg, a boiled egg wrapped in sausage meat. You could find one of those delicious things in your hamper by 1756. Walter James MacQueen-Pope, a theatrical historian, felt compelled to mention Fortnum's scotch eggs in his book Goodbye Piccadilly. I feel compelled to pick one up every time I pop into Fortnum's.

The Intrepid Hamper

A Fortnum's hamper accompanied many a British explorer in the Victorian era and early 20th century. One has images of the immense struggle involved in undertaking these expeditions - frost dangling from beards in the Arctic, malarial fevers in the tropics - but it's an interesting contrast to think that a 1922 expedition to Everest was accompanied by Fortnum's hampers containing amongst other items 60 tins of quail in foie gras and four dozen bottles of champagne. That's how to explore.

Feature idea: Wherever I Lay My Hamper. If anyone has pictures of far-flung Fortnum's hampers they'd like to share, drop a line to Tweed Towers.

Baggage Allowance - Brady Bags of Walsall

2011-12-01T07:03:00.000Z

Brady Bags - Made in England since 1887

Brady Bags was established in 1887 in the English Midlands city of Birmingham by brothers John and Albert Brady, and the company is still locally owned and with a Brady family connection. They continue to make their bags by hand in nearby Walsall using quality British materials and craftsmanship.

One of Brady's classic designs is the Ariel Trout Bag, which was first produced in the 1920s. It's available in different sizes and in heavy duty canvas (khaki version below), wool (dog-tooth version above) or English saddlery leather. Beautiful things and very well constructed.

You can see why Nigel Cabourn was eager to collaborate with Brady.

The canvas version has a removable rubber lining, the leather version cotton check. You can purchase replacements linings and also the useful pocket insert (below). With one of these bags at your side, fishing could well be easier too, as I'd imagine that the trout, full of admiration, would be jumping out of the river to take a closer look. They know a good bag when they see one.

Meissen - Porcelain and Politeness

2011-11-29T08:10:00.107Z

Meissen - Synonymous with High Quality Porcelain for 300 Years

When I visited Berlin recently, I popped in to the Meissen shop to see what was new. I can tell you that the 300-year-old German porcelain manufacturer - and creator of Europe's first hard-paste porcelain - is going strong judging by the business they were doing. Wonderful to discover that all Meissen porcelain is still manufactured in Meissen. That's exactly what the people in the shop - Chinese, Russians, Anglo-Americans - wanted to hear. They want to buy a little piece of that history, particularly when they are visiting Germany.

Objects from Meissen's archives continue to be manufactured, such as the Four Elements vase above, of which only three are made a year. If these examples of high European culture are too ornate, they have the contemporary and minimal too. The Waves with Swords range, such as the Breakfast Cup below, uses the Meissen cross swords logo, which is derived from the old Saxon coat of arms.

China, the country and originator of porcelain, influenced the design motifs used on earlier Meissen tableware. And now these Asian-influenced designs are finding a ready market in today's China. Some of Meissen's contemporary ranges, such as Ming and Asia are also taking direct aim at this market too.

Meissen - Synonymous with Politeness?

What charming and well-informed staff they have in the Meissen Boutique in Unter der Linden, Berlin. They were knowledgeable, polite and willing and able to discuss the wares. I was just browsing to see if there was a little something to take back for young Mrs Tweed, but I was given all the time in the world and a history of the company at the same time (see below). I left the shop feeling nothing but goodwill for Meissen. In my mind, Meissen is now synonymous with politeness too.

A Brief History of Meissen

The history of the ownership of Meissen is a fascinating reflection of the history of Saxony. Originally owned by the King of Saxony, then the State of Saxony, it passed into ownership of the people when Meissen became part of Soviet East Germany. The People's Own Plant, State China Manufactory, Meissen, no less. Now Meissen is part of a reunified Germany and the manufacturer is now fully-owned by the State of Saxony once more.

Fox Brothers Week - Globe-Trotter Case

2011-11-25T06:58:00.003Z

Liberty's National Treasures - Globe-Trotter Suitcase Lined with Fox Brothers' Glen Check

A nice story behind our final offering for Fox Brothers Week. Liberty recently launched its National Treasures campaign to raise money for a children's charity. National Treasures brings together well-known Brits and well known British brands to create one-off pieces.

The Fox Brothers contribution is a collaboration, through co-owner Deborah Meaden, with Globe-Trotter to create a very limited edition of 10 leather suitcases lined with Fox Brothers cloth.

Globe-Trotter, established in 1857, makes the suitcases by hand in England and use the same techniques and materials as the originals. The case produced for Liberty's National Treasures has a Colonial Brown vulcanised fibreboard outer with Cocoa Leather trim, and is lined with Fox Brothers’ Glen Check.

Message from Young Mrs Tweed

If you consider yourself a British classic or a hidden gem - artist, manufacturer, pie-maker, designer, juggler whatever - drop me a line and maybe we can put together another special week at Tweed Towers.

Fox Brothers Week - The Brady Bags Bunch with Nigel Cabourn

2011-11-24T06:47:00.002Z

Nigel Cabourn Collaborates with Brady Bags to Create Fishing Bags Using Fox Brothers Cloth

I spotted the bag above in the 14oz shop in Berlin and thought it an essential for our Fox Brothers week. What we have here is a three-way British connection between Nigel Cabourn, Brady Bags and Fox Brothers. Nigel Cabourn designed, cloth supplied by Fox Brothers, made by Brady Bags in England. Lovely to see it in 14oz, nestled in a display amongst the Tricker's and Barbour that was like a shrine to Britishness.

Nigel has collaborated with Brady to create two styles of fishing bag: The Handy Fishing Bag (above) and the Great Scott Fishing Bag (below).

Homing in on the detail, we have leather trims and straps. The jute netting is hand-made and hand-knotted in Britain. The Fox Brothers country check cloths chosen for the outers look very distinctive. I half knew I'd be seeing their label before I got close enough to the bag in 14oz. Perfect for spending some time along the banks of the river Dee, thinking Izaak Walton-like thoughts.

PS: More on Brady Bags in a future post. Tweedy.

Fox Brothers Week - Q & A Session with Douglas Cordeaux - Standard Bearer for Flannel

2011-11-22T07:06:00.001Z

The Importance of Fox Brothers

Our Fox Brothers Week continues with an interview with Douglas Cordeaux, Managing Director at Fox Brothers. He acquired the Fox Brothers mill with Deborah Meaden in 2009, effectively and heroically saving Fox Brothers for the nation. Manufacturing names with a heritage as rich as Fox Brothers are easily as important as Turner, Wren or Keats, say, when considering the narrative and history of British culture.

Q & A with Douglas Cordeaux - Managing Director of Fox Brothers

With sharpened pencil and notepad at hand, Young Mrs Tweed probed Douglas Cordeaux in the latest of our The Tweed Pig Q & A sessions. The result is a nice insight into the world of Fox Brothers.

Many thanks to Douglas for his time, and for providing such thoughtful responses.

How has Fox Brothers managed to survive for nearly 250 years?
Fox Brothers was established in 1772 and has seen some good times and some harder times in its company history, like any mill in the British Isles I suppose. When you consider that Fox used to employ around 5k people, which was down to just 15 when Deborah Meaden and I acquired the mill at the end of 2009 and now we’re back up to a team of 25, that puts into perspective the changes Fox has been through in its long history.

Now the last mill in the West Country, and there used to be lots, Fox has survived because of its world-class product. Fox is said to be the “Standard Bearer for Flannel”, for which it is credited with being the official originator last century.

Fox also has a unique position in a fiercely competitive global marketplace of being able to cope with bespoke orders for cloth. If they wish, we can give customers the ultimate choice, to design their own unique cloth, whether it is a lightweight flannel or a West of England tweed. There’s nowhere else you can do this, unless you own your own mill, of course!

What types of cloth do you produce?
Fine woollen and worsted cloth. We are world famous for our flannels and credited with being the original and still the best.

Where is Fox Brothers most popular?
Fox is what is now referred to as a British heritage brand and sells well in Britain, major countries in Europe and particularly at the present time, in Japan, Korea and the Far East.

What is your best-selling cloth?
We’re best known for our flannels and worsteds, but seasonally we see strong demand for a particular cloth or design depending on fashion and what’s going on in different markets amongst different brands. The Olympics has generated demand for bold stripes and blazer type cloths for next year, for instance.

How do you arrive at new designs? Or do you refer to your archives?
Both really, we do have a wonderful textile archive at Fox, described as “one of the most significant textile (company) archives in the British Isles”, which designers use for inspiration and to find interesting back stories behind a certain cloth to interest the consumer, but we also innovate to come up with new designs and finishes.

What were the results of your appeal for the "Great British Fox Hunt"?
[Fox Brothers asked the public to help with compiling historic textile and document archives]
Apart from a wonderful afternoon spent at the mill reminiscing with former employees like Gladys - the nursery nurse now in her 90’s, who used to run the crèche and was chatting to a former charge of hers; and the young gentleman from the Fox family itself, who bought his father’s magnificent overcoat made from Fox Brothers cloth - members of the public bought along all manner of clothing, letters, photographs and stories to share. The main purpose was to introduce ourselves as the new owners and to let the guests and the town’s Mayor, all of whom had or have a connection to Fox, know that we’re committed to Fox and its future.

Our chief designer Rosemarie was able to talk about the different things people had kept and cherished and we found out quite a lot about the way the mill used to be run.

Have preferences for particular cloths changed over time?
Looking through the archives you’re struck by how vibrant and daring gentlemen used to be with their suits, blazers and overcoats. Black and white photos and old books make it easy to forget just how colourful people were in the way they liked to dress.

Over time the trend has been towards softer cloths and we’ve been able to move with the times, producing lightweight flannels suitable for more contemporary tastes.

How do you preserve Fox Brothers' heritage, yet continue to innovate?
We build on the heritage but as our archives show, have always been innovative, producing new cloths to appeal to changing tastes. ‘Serge’ for military puttees used to be a mainstay of the business, but unsurprisingly, we don’t make much of that any more!

There are though perennial classics that never go out of fashion of course - chalk stripes, Prince of Wales, Glen check and tweed. These days people are surprised to know there’s such a thing as ‘West of England’ tweed. We’re the only mill left in the West Country, so the only ones left making this highly thought of tweed.

Tweedy's Thought: With Fox Brothers resurgent, it would be nice to see gentlemen being more vibrant and daring with their suits, blazers and overcoats once more.

Fox Brothers Week - The Merchant Fox

2011-11-21T06:41:00.000Z

Fox Brothers Week at The Tweed Pig

Welcome to the first post in a very special week at The Tweed Pig. As you may have guessed from the title, we'll be dedicating the week to Fox Brothers, the world-renowned West Country cloth manufacturer, which was established in 1772 and is probably best known for creating flannel. Come with us now, as we start our Fox Brothers journey and get to know this wonderful British company a little better. Thanks to Fox Brothers for all their help in putting our week together.

Fox Brothers Launches The Merchant Fox

After 200-plus years of manufacturing and supplying the finest flannel and worsted cloths, Fox Brothers recently launched The Merchant Fox range of products made in the UK. Through The Merchant Fox, they now design and sell a range of products, including furnishing, accessories and clothes. The products are created in collaboration with a countrywide network of British craftsmen and manufacturers.

Just look at those slippers above. Fox Brothers Russell Check cloth outside, satin inside, and leather sole. Hand-made on a traditional last by traditional shoemakers in Norwich, England.

And what about that dressing gown below...

Lovely Dressing Gown

Appropriately, many of the items available from The Merchant Fox incorporate Fox Brothers cloth in some way. Take the Chalk Windowpane Dressing Gown (below), which is created in collaboration with gown masters Budd Shirtmakers of Piccadilly Arcade, Mayfair, London.

Sold to order, Budd creates the gown in a Fox lambswool flannel to create something cosily tactile yet elegant. Budd, who have been cutting shirts for over a hundred years, fashion the gown with a shawl collar and deep pockets, which are handy for holding all your essentials - a bag of humbugs, perhaps, or an Agatha Christie novel. H'm maybe that could be a feature - What do you keep in your dressing gown pockets?

Wainwright - The Beer and the Man

2011-11-18T08:10:00.018Z

Alfred Wainwright - Lakeland Misery Guts

Alfred Wainwright was a famous northern English walker and writer of walks, most closely associated with England's Lake District. When the plain-speaking Wainwright died in 1991, the walking guides to the Lakes he started with the Pictorial Guide to the Lakeland Fells in the 50s were still in print and continue to be so. All this without any advertising or publicity, of which the diffident Wainwright had no interest. In fact, he had something of a reputation of being a cantankerous and unapproachable misery guts in real life, which is not something that comes across in his books. The story goes that he began walking to escape his wife. No such complications with one of his great walking companions - his pipe, of course.

The Wainwright Society was formed in 2002 to keep alive the memory of the man and his works.

Thwaites' Wainwright - Exquisitely Good Golden Ale

Thwaites brewery was founded in 1807 in Blackburn, England - Wainwright's birthplace. To celebrate their 200th anniversary they produced a number of speciality ales, including the Wainwright golden ale.

It's light, with a nice hoppy bite and citrus tang - a good hiking ale. But if there's squall blowing outside, a glass of this whilst reading one of Wainwright's books in front of a roaring fire is a good alternative.

Spotlight on Anglepoise

2011-11-17T08:10:00.035Z

Banish Blackout Eyestrain with an Anglepoise

The Anglepoise lamp, patented in 1932, was invented by industrial designer George Carwardine. His innovative lamp uses a system of joints suspended with springs to create an articulated arm for directional lighting. This inspirational design drew on his professional knowledge of vehicle suspension.

Carwardine produced the original lamps in workshops in Bath, England. Such was their popularity that he needed a partner to increase the scale of manufacturing. In 1934, Carwardine signed a licensing agreement with Herbert Terry and Sons Ltd, and the 4-spring Anglepoise or Terry Lamp was launched at the British Industries Fair. It came in very useful during the war and all those inconvenient blackouts, as the advertisement above testifies. Thanks to the lamp's qualities, a chap could continue with his novel or jigsaw puzzle whilst the doodlebugs dropped.

Such was the perfection of the design, it has changed little over 75 years. The outcome of a further collaboration with Terrys in 1934 was a patent for a 3-spring version of the lamp. This became the Anglepoise 1227. And it's still being made, and recognisably the same British design classic, save for a few minor changes to the electrics and base.

21st Century Anglepoise

Despite heavy competition from cheapo lamp copyists, The Tweed Pig is happy to report that the Terry family are still involved in the production of Anglepoise lamps, with father and son team John and Simon Terry now running the company. They are continuing to focus on creating products that combine quality, function and design.

Anglepoise, as the company is now known, recently brought manufacturing back to the UK with a quirky version of the famous Anglepoise 1227 lamp. The Giant 1227 is three times the size of the original and built entirely in the UK. What a beast.

William Halstead - Masters of Mohair

2011-11-15T08:10:00.087Z

William Halstead's Little Book of Mohair

I have in front of me The Little Book of Mohair produced by William Halstead. William Halstead has been weaving fine mohair and worsted cloths since 1875, and operating from their Stanley Mill in Bradford, England since 1889. The photo below is of Halstead's weaving shed in 1875. They are still Bradford-owned and based.

What to Look for In Mohair...Essentially a Halstead Label

Mohair is derived from the hair of the angora goat. The Little Book of Mohair explains its qualities: its excellent insulation properties - superior to wool, and the fact that it's the most durable of all natural fibres. The smoothness and sheen of mohair means that it also dyes exceptionally well and proves resistant to fading. Its lightness makes it perfect for summer suits.

Then we get down to grades of mohair, which is all about the fineness. You'll be interested in the best, I'll wager, which comes from the young angoras (6-12 months) who produce the finest and softest super kid or summer kid mohair from their first shearing. This mohair is used in the best suiting cloths.

Sourcing the finest kid mohair, William Halstead are the only UK producer licensed to weave the famous Camdeboo mohair from South Africa.

I don't have a lot of mohair in my wardrobe. After reading this book, I feel I need more. Maybe you will too: The Little Book of Mohair.

Bond Connection

Gentlemen, we have a Halstead link to James Bond. Halstead produced mohair cloth for Scabal, which was then used by Brioni to make Pierce Brosnan's James Bond dinner suit. Well, nobody does it better.

Baracuta Tweed

2011-11-14T08:10:00.045Z

Ace Faces Wear Tweed

What do you do if you're the Ace Face on your manor and you're wanting to add a bit of tweed into your wardrobe? Thankfully, Baracuta have resolved this dilemma by reproducing the classic G4 Harrington jacket in Harris tweed.

Made in England, the slim-fit G4 is part of Baracuta's 137 project, celebrating the heritage of the company since it was founded in 1937.

Now the Ace Face doesn't have to stick to the predictable "Ivy league jackets and white buckskin shoes."

Talking of Baracuta's Heritage

Baracuta reported to Tweed Towers that their Monaco G37 double-breasted cotton trench coat is proving very popular. Let's remind ourselves of its provenance by presenting it against a charming advertisement from Baracuta's past. Baracuta's tag line was the aristocrat of tailored rainwear back then. Maybe with the Monaco it's seeking out that position again?

War Requiem - Benjamin Britten and Derek Jarman

2011-11-11T06:47:00.001Z

Benjamin Britten's War Requiem

English classical composer, Benjamin Britten, composed his War Requiem in 1961. It was commissioned by Coventry cathedral as part of a festival to celebrate its reconsecration after the original was destroyed in the Second World War.

The requiem interposes the Latin Mass for the Dead, the Missa pro defunctis, interwoven with nine poems by the English war poet Wilfred Owen.

Derek Jarman's War Requiem

Avant-garde - or is he regarded as mainstream now? - English director, Derek Jarman, shot a film version of Britten's War Requiem using a 1963 LSO recording solely as its soundtrack. The film featured Sir Laurence Olivier, brought out retirement, as well as Jarman muse Tilda Swinton and a young Sean Bean and Nathaniel Parker.

Against the elegiacal quality of Britten's music and Owen's poetry, Jarman set a series of reminiscences of Olivier's character, the Old Soldier, shot in pronounced chiaroscuro with poetic imagery. The scene of the German and English soldiers having a snowball fight is perhaps one of the most enduring and moving images. The film is now available on DVD. A 20th anniversary edition came out in 2008 with added extras.

The Wet Pack - Daines and Hathaway

2011-11-08T08:10:00.174Z

The Military Wet Pack wraps up all your grooming essentials

As we continue to point out at The Tweed Pig, when it comes to timeless classics you'll often find a military connection. In the case of the Military Wet Pack from English leather goods maker Daines and Hathaway the name is a bit of a giveaway.

The style of the wet pack is similar to the standard issue kit of a British Army officer in the early 20th century. Such is its robustness, you can well imagine it being packed for front line ablutions. I hope I'm capturing its handsomeness in the photos.

Inside there are lots of pockets in its green waterproof lining. Plenty of room for stuffing in all your grooming items and then buckling it up for your trip.

At your destination, you simply unfurl and hang. The buckle serves as a loop to hang the pack.

The bridle leather has a lovely waxy feel. You can feel the quality and the craftsmanship when you hold it in your hand. Nice colour too. It's going to age beautifully.

Daines and Hathaway - British Classic

Daines and Hathway was established in 1922 in the English midlands town of Walsall. The founders, William Daines and Charles Hathaway, were leather specialists. And the company has achieved renown for crafting high-quality leather goods for almost a century. Their factory is still based in Walsall, which is fantastic. The products are produced using high grade leather supplied by Pittards, who is based in the West Country of England. Great provenance. Just the sort of company The Tweed Pig takes great pleasure in covering.

Ablute in Style this Christmas

We have a few weeks to go until Christmas, so I suggest you mail this post to your wife or loved one 'by mistake'. Who knows, there may be one waiting under a tree for you on Christmas day.

Train Jotting - Berlin to Prague

2011-11-07T07:29:00.003Z

Deutsche Bahn Makes the Trip from Berlin to Prague a Pleasure

I was able to add a few days in Prague to the end of my trip to Berlin. This gave me the pleasurable excuse to visit Berlin's wonderful newish (2006) main train station - Berlin Hauptbahnof. It is a marvel of architecture and planning set over five levels so that lines, including the city's communter-oriented S-Bahn and U-Bahn, enter and exit as efficiently as possible. Berlin's Schonefeld airport will have a direct link next year, giving Berlin an unbeatably connected infrastructure.

The station is managed by Deutsche Bahn, the German national rail operator, with reassuring efficiency. Deutsche Bahn is now the largest railway operator and rail infrastructure owner in Europe. I took one of their trains to Prague on the Berlin to Vienna line.

The Journey

A nice journey in a snoozably quiet carriage. Maybe too snoozable, as I woke with the imprint of the adjacent chair on my face as a member of staff toured the carriage taking requests for dining.

Tea was required.

The tea was brought to me as we entered Bohemia through the Ore mountains. A nice civil touch to see that Deutsche Bahn haven't abandoned tea pots.

The fact that I had drifted off into dreamland and the reviving properties of the tea made me wonder what happened to the very British Teasmade. It's still going, I'm happy to report. Maybe they need to think about a Teasmade with a dock for digital music players. I think I'll get young Mrs Tweed to contact them and do some investigation.

I noticed that the German language gave way to Czech from Dresden onwards. No passport check at Děčín, the first Czech stop. I always think that's a bit of a shame. I really want someone to ask if they can see my papers, like an Eric Ambler spy story.

Destination Prague

Do seek out the cafe at Prague station on the upper level. It really is rather charming, particularly at night. In fact, try and arrange a late night rendezvous wearing a trench coat and a trilby hat. Code name Tweed Pig.

I did the usual things for a short stay in Prague. I saw this sign and thought of you. A sign for a punk clothing and records shop. I always find it interesting to see how Britishness is appropriated abroad to convey a message. Depending on what's being sold, images of 70s London punks and gentlemanly pin-striped clubland images are perennial favourites.

The Berlin to Prague Playlist - Forss Journeyman

I took a playlist of music for my trip between Berlin and Prague. Obviously, any German-based playlist would include Dietrich, Fischer Dieskau, the Comedian Harmonists, Kraftwerk and a bit of schlager.

I also popped this one on. Journeyman by Forss. We don't feature much electronic music in The Tweed Pig, but this is an interesting re-working of Kraftwerk's classic Trans Europe Express. The spoken word is from poet and DJ Rich Medina. "On a southbound train that seems to eat through the German countryside like a mylar saw through wood..."

S

Commando Comics Presents "The Sand Devils" [Part 16]

2011-11-05T08:10:00.010Z

This exciting serial was brought to you by courtesy of Commando Comics. Please do your duty and click the link to subscribe to a regular helping of action and adventure with a great saving right now. Tweedy expects, chums.

Subscribe and SAVE £68.50 off the retail price

Code for Tweed Pig Readers: CMTTP

Enter the code on the subscription page from the link above to get your discount. Or call 0800 318 846 for UK residents or +44 1382 575580 overseas lines open 9am-4.45pm Mon-Fri. Offer ends 30 March 2012

Pricing: First direct debit payment £12.50 per quarter (UK) and £25 every 3 months thereafter. Overseas Direct Debit: £18.75 per quarter and £37.50 thereafter. One year sub: £101 (UK) and overseas: £150

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Smoke Over London

2011-11-04T07:25:00.001Z

Swinging London and Englishness from an Italian Perspective

If you looked in on The Tweed Pig a couple of days ago, you'd have seen the post on How to Make an Englishman. Of course, these were stills from the 1960s Italian film Smoke Over London or Fumo di Londra.

The comic film was written and directed by Alberto Sordi, who had starred previously in the films of Fellini. Sordi also played the main character Dante Fontana, an Italian man in love with the idea of Britishness and British culture. He comes to London with a dream of living like an Englishman, which, of course, is not as easy as it looks. I revel in the backgrounds, the shops and the streets scenes.

You can hunt out the soundtrack, the original posters and the film itself. Chilsolm Larsson Gallery have an original hunting scene poster available (top) as we go to press.

Swinging Soundtrack

The swinging soundtrack for Fumo di Londra was composed by Piero Piccioni, but Sordi also had a hand, and credit, on the smashing song You Never Told Me. An original Italian pressing of the soundtrack will cost a pretty penny, you'll be fighting amongst eager mod collectors when they come on the market. But you can get a CD copy for much less.

Another song from the film, Mr Dante Fontana, gives the recipe we described for making an Englishman in the lyrics.

Get your bowler hat at Lock

Look around you

See how they surround you

Get that hat at Lock

Buy your stylish shoes at Lobb

It's the done thing

Stroll and walk around in shoes from Mr Lobb

Your umbrella straight from Brigg

Never, never trust the weather ever

Get your brolly from Brigg

Then you'll find at Fortnum and Mason a beautiful red carnation

A moment of sweet fascination will linger with you

From Dunhill a pipe for the manly type
Get your ties each day the Piccadilly way
Gentlemen everything is just alright

Tweedy ist ein Berliner #2

2011-11-03T06:46:00.001Z

Prater - the Oldest Beer Garden in Berlin

When visiting Berlin I will defnitely make time for a place that declares itself Berlin's oldest beer garden. Prater Beer Garten, in Prenzlauer Berg, has been selling beer since the mid-1800s. The building of Prater looks like a wooden bungalow on the outside. Actually, that's what it is. I wondered if I was at the right place on my first visit. Inside, the decor of the place is charmingly unprepossessing.

Prater serves good beer and nice simple German food. I tried some of Prater's own-label Pils to drink. To eat - ham, mashed potato and pickled cabbage, with semolina pud and baked plums for afters. Yum yum.

Prater is not open for lunch in winter. It's not quite central, but easy to get to. Just jump on the U-Bhan and head to Eberswalder Strasse station.

Bygone Berlin

Prater is in a studenty area, or so it seems. There are places for cheap dining and a few vintage shops. Good for a saunter and a rummage.

In one vintage shop I tried a heavy duty overcoat with a detachable fur lining. I've been after a fur-lined overcoat for a while. I tried one in Venice about five years ago. Perfect, but I thought I'd see a few more to compare with and haven't seen any since. Lesson learned. This coat was the right size, but as with many vintage pieces it had lost its shape. Maybe a tailor could have knocked some shape into it, but I chose not to invest. I might regret this lost opportunity too.

The English Scent - The Smells of England in Berlin

I've never heard of Pilot aftershave. I quite like the packaging though. Spotted for sale in one of the vintage shops. Certainly, it would not be found in one of Berlin's loveliest shops, The English Scent.

Situated in Goethestrasse in the Charlottenburg district of Berlin, The English Scent sells all our favourites, including Penhaligon's, Floris, D R Harris and Trumpers.

Well worth looking up if you have some time in Berlin.

Tweedy ist ein Berliner #1

2011-11-01T08:10:00.175Z

Put Your Best Brogue Forward in Berlin

Berlin is a sprawling city, but has good infrastructure and the brogue-shod walker is well considered. Signposts give walking distances, and nearby road and train options. Basing yourself in the Mitte or central district gives you a fighting chance to cover a lot of ground by foot. Alexanderplatz train station is a great hub to zip around from. Plenty of opportunities to hire a bike in this relatively flat city too.

British Presence in Neue Schoenhauser Strasse

Fred Perry has one of its Laurel Wreath Collection shops in Neue Schoenhauser Strasse. Inside, I saw a couple of Perry collaborations: Duffle coats with Gloverall, and scarves with Tootal Vintage. In the Friends of Fred Perry section there were some John Smedley sweaters - the classic 3-button shirt variety. I was going to take a couple of photos of the stripped-down interior, but it was verboten.

On the same street I saw some interesting things in 14oz, a shop which takes care to stock brands based on quality and authenticity. The Brits are represented with Nigel Cabourn, Baracuta, Barbour, Gloverall, Mackintosh, Tricker's, Drakes and Globe-Trotter. Very well represented actually.

There's definitely a demand for authentic British products in Berlin. Other British heritage brands looking for inroads into Germany may want to get in touch with 14oz.

Cheque Books not Checkpoints in Friedrichstrasse

In Friedrichstrasse, which used to be dissected by the Berlin Wall and Checkpoint Charlie, Quartier 206 is an art deco-style shopping mall that recalls the divinely decadent Berlin of the 20s. Galleries Lafayette is next door, a sister to the Paris original.

Lindner for Cake

Also on Friedrichstrasse, Lindner has one of their pleasant little delicatessen-cum-cafes. Lindner is a family business and was founded in Berlin in the 1950s. Its cafes are now found in other German cities. Nice place for a slice of strudel.

Hat's Off to Barbour's Beacon Heritage Collection

2011-10-31T08:10:00.071Z

Barbour's New Collection Shows Innovation with a Key Historical Perspective

You wait a while for a Barbour feature and then two arrive in quick succession. But it would be remiss of The Tweed Pig not to mention Barbour's limited edition Beacon Heritage Collection.

The collection was created in collaboration with Japanese designer Tokihito Yoshida, who took his inspiration from the British countryside. Tokhito is renowned for his academic approach to design and thoroughness in construction. Here he has applied it to a collection that reveals a knowledge of Barbour's archive and colour palette.

It's good stuff. I just hope that with all the fashion talk around Barbour, they don't follow Burberry on to the catwalk and set adrift from their heritage. Yoshida, with his confessed Anglophilia, seems like a safe pair of hands. His almost obsessive attention to detail can be seen in the complexity of the The Spey Fishing Jacket (below), which is constructed using 240 pieces. But it's not complexity without reason - the jacket is built for purpose.

You Can never Have Enough Pockets

Yoshida has said that he likes jackets that also serve as bags, so that you don't need to carry one. I know what he means. I sometimes wear my 3/4-length Barbour Border, with its important Made in England label, just because of the huge internal poacher's pockets. It's pictured at the top with my ancient wax hat. I re-applied wax to the hat myself and rather overdid it. But it keeps the rain out. The hat's kept in one of the poacher's pockets for sudden showers.

Tweed Offerings

The Beacon Heritage Collection includes tweed coats for the great outdoors. There's no compromise on functionality. My favourite, the Oates (below), has a waterproof laminated Shetland wool tweed outer, which was inspired from a button-up tunic from Barbour's archive. It has leather buttons, is buggy-lined in ventile and has a zipped game pocket for all your hunting or rambling essentials - hip flask, Romney's delicious Kendal Mint Cake, cigars and so on.

Tweed Thought: With classic options like this available, why do people choose those insipid jackets in migraine-inducing colours you get in camping shops?

Commando Comics Presents "The Sand Devils" [Part 15]

2011-10-29T08:10:00.002+01:00

To be continued...

This exciting serial is brought to you by courtesy of Commando Comics. Please do your duty and click the link to subscribe to a regular helping of action and adventure with a great saving right now. Tweedy expects, chums.

Subscribe and SAVE £68.50 off the retail price

Code for Tweed Pig Readers: CMTTP

Enter the code on the subscription page from the link above to get your discount. Or call 0800 318 846 for UK residents or +44 1382 575580 overseas lines open 9am-4.45pm Mon-Fri. Offer ends 30 March 2012

Pricing: First direct debit payment £12.50 per quarter (UK) and £25 every 3 months thereafter. Overseas Direct Debit: £18.75 per quarter and £37.50 thereafter. One year sub: £101 (UK) and overseas: £150

*Saving by Direct Debit based on the yearly retail price of £156. Direct Debit available for UK bank accounts only. Non Direct Debit UK rate available at £101 (normally £110) for one year subscription. Overseas discount rate £150.