Paul Stuart Induce Spring Fever

The Phineas Cole collections from our favourite Anglo-American outfitters, Paul Stuart, disappoint in only one way: Madison Avenue is quite the jaunt from south Somerset, England. As earth rises from the dreams of its wintry rest, Phineas Cole is inducing a severe spring fever this year with another strong collection.

Balanced smartness
And in spring a young man's fancy turns to linen. Here we build a recommended outfit, with some decidedly mod touches, around the Phineas Cole Blue Linen Blazer —an unlined patch pocket linen jacket with peak lapels. Peak lapels and double breasts combine to add a smart balance to the relaxed manner of the fabric and construction. It looks rather nipped in at the waist, so don't forget those exercise tips that Zen Martinoli taught us.

Punting on the Cam floppy foppishness
The collar's the thing with shirts. The collar of the Royal Blue Strip Cotton Dress Shirt has a good size and spread, with a nice punting on the Cam floppy foppishness about it. Those vertical stripes are slimming if you do not heed the advice of Zen.

Patrician good taste
The Vespa Motif Silk Tie is made from silk woven in England. The tie is self-tipped and made in the good ol' USA — a true Anglo-American partnership. One must exhibit extreme vigilance when choosing ties with motifs. One slip, indulging a weakness for Homer Simpson or a character from South Park, say, and suddenly you're in comedy tie territory and no one can ever take you seriously ever, ever again. A silk tie with Vespa scooters from Paul Stuart in delicious colour combinations, on the other hand, tells the world that you are ineffably a man of patrician good taste.

The Stone Cotton Trouser in a very wearable colour has side-adjusters and suede piping around the pockets.

Frogmouth pockets
Let's home in on those frogmouth pockets for a moment. The piping is a small but significant detail, setting the trouser away from the common herd. Frogmouth pockets were a sixties mod staple. Bond wore trousers with such pockets in the Bond films of that era. I don't know why we don't see more of this type of pocket on trousers. Some people insist on them when they have suits made, because they prefer pockets that don't flare out. A jetted trouser pocket might offer the same thing, I suppose. The frogmouth pocket certainly lends itself to the current preference for more fitted clothes. And with the position of the pockets, you won't be tempted to put your hands in your pockets so much. I'm terrible for that.

We end with the English-made Chestnut Leather Chelsea Boot. The boot is fully lined in leather and has classic Goodyear welted construction. What pleasing and harmonious proportions. I haven't done my sums, but I would estimate that we're looking at a boot that conforms roughly to the golden ratio, obeying all natural laws of beauty. If that isn't a reason to add them to a classic wardrobe, I don't know what is.


  1. I thought International shipping rates from my favorite UK shop--Cordings--were high, until I looked up the rates at Paul Stuart.

    1. What can we do, Bradley? A stern letter to someone, somewhere? Might work.


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